Accuracy im lost as how to attain it

After trying to get accuracy over all else, im back yet again to the drawing board, with now no f$%ing idea how to attain it.

So was out playing today with my ACR and HK416 and some guy who had been given a loaner pink p90 could shoot perfectly straight into almost any target 5-25 meters.
(not particularity fast or strong fps, but just pain simple accurate)

And me with my ACR or hk416 couldn’t really land more than 1 ball in 10 on either of the targets. (we were both using same quality of balls)
LDT HK461D (stock) with 11.1v
ACR nothing stock any more.

So my question is accuracy:
Does a 11.1v battery screw up your accuracy?
Does a longer barrel screw your accuracy?
I know spring does but with stock hk416 dont think the spring is particularly that strong, not enough to completely mess things up)
How did this pink p90 stock standard fire so accurately (what spring is inside of it)?
All i know is it had a 7.4v, and a very short barrel.

Anyone’s ideas are very welcome.

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Painful situation, I think that what gels work in one blaster may not necessarily work in another blaster! Do you have barrel stabilisers, what barrel are you using, my acr is really good accuracy wise at around 290FPS with a few basic mods.
Can’t comment on the HK though.

Volumetric efficiency creates accuracy, matching the barrel length to the swept volume of the cylinder, amd with the HK, you need to stop the flex between the front hamd guard and the reciever.

So tested my hk416 against another hk416, SCAR and ACR and pink p90.
P90 shat all over everything else.
even the scar was accurate, its like all of my ■■■■ are heavily inaccurate.

So thinking of going right down to smallest 1.0mm spring, 7.4v and small barrels and starting to move from there.

Shit, that sounds pretty intelligent and probably right, so i was totally dead against ported cylinders.
But is it that you can only go either ported or not.
Maybe even creating your own port testing as you go to see if it helps?

So will I have to measure the intended barrel length for that ■■■ and then measure that up on the cylinder and then drill a small hole or 2 as to allow for air escapeage!?

for best performance, has anyone done tests to see how much extra air pressure is still beneficial to accuracy before it becomes to much?


If your going to run an 11v battery I’d do all your testing with it, then when you get it right you won’t change it and possibly change the accuracy again. Maybe just back it off a bit and you might see the accuracy improve till you get the sweet spot. I suspect stability may be one of your biggest problems.

Does using an 11v make a blaster less accurate?
All it is, is higher rof right?

If it dosnt ill stick with 11.1v as ive got a few good 11.1v’s now and modified all my blasters to use a different RC battery connector for less resistance etc.

11v dosnt necessarily = more fps ?(which could decrease accuracy due to more pressure exerted on the ball)

So far, im going to try to figure out what the best pressure cylinder vs barrel size = most accurate. Personally id rather go bigger in barrel length than try to port down a cylinder.

As far as I’m aware yes just higher rof no fps increase. Also if you go longer barrel you’ll need less porting as the longer barrel will have more volume. ACR has a %100 cylinder with a standard barrel of about 35cm with 7.5 ID. Works great for me.

A gel blaster can’t be accurate… not sight accurate as such. A gel blaster person who knows his blaster can become quite ‘accurate’ with it because he knows where to point it to hit the target… but highly unlikely that this can be done purely looking through some sort of optic. badluck Every one wants a sniper blaster that can fire one gel accurately and pick off someone… but alass… not really possible. Others have said "Bs… my blaster is super mega accurate!’… but I am still waiting to see the video of it. I will certainly apologise and stand corrected if someone comes up with a blaster that can hit a target (single sho0t), aimed only thru a scope, 5 times in a row…:+1:

From my experiences putting my real scopes on blasters, there is not enough adjustment on a scope to be usable on a blaster… to be able to hit on a target using a scope, the scope on the blaster is not in line with the barrel at all.

Blasters are fun things to spray targets with 205qlh4


All my blasters dont even have sights let alone optics as they are completely unusable in my eyes.

im not talking about a sniper through a scope or any sort of optics. We all could see the results with our pain eyes.

I said 4 different blasters shooting at trees of 5m-10m and 15 meters away.
and visibly a p90 was ripping it, then every other ■■■ on the list compared to my 2 blasters.

I have just started to tear everything down and started from scratch again:
S–o far at 20 meters from a 6 burst shot i have hit the cardboard between 2-5 times.
that is fing awesome accuracy compared to what i had previously.
Where i would have to shoot x3 more that to even hit the cardboard once.

am now ready to start increasing and playing around with spring sizes, cylinder from ported to full and 7.4-11.1.
I have a 53cm barrel in there currently and the hop up has been tweaked for accuracy over back spin for distance (done by raising under part rather then lowering top part)

interestingly: the ported cylinder was performing perfectly well with the 53cm in there, using a 1.28mm spring.

Have downgraded to a 1.18 spring since and fps is far lower (went from almost 300 down to 230fps) yet its accuracy first then go from there for me.

I have the HK 416 added a 11.1 v and a hop up ( no other Mods)…great accuracy compared with most competitors… love it … but only about 270 fps.

Yes, alot of blaster sho0oters can hit a target really well… because they know where to aim the blaster in order to hit the target.

Coming from a real sho0oting background… to me and most other sho0oters… accuracy means you can lay on a mound, or stand and aim whilst looking thru a scope or other optic… and hit a bulls eye every time (almost) icon_e_ugeek

I have tried using a .22 rifle scope on some of my blasters and looking thru a scope, there is no chance of hitting a target… let alone a bullseye…

Yet, off the hip, watching the stream of gells, I can pretty well nail everything after the first 5-10 gels gets away :grin::+1:


Was after any ideas on how to improve accuracy,
Gel blaster accuracy, not live firearm accuracy.

My point is you cant really improve accuracy of a gel blaster other than to have a straight, well supported barrel, have the right size gels for the barrel, a good seal and all of the air system in order so it is constant. That is the best you can do…

other than that, gel blasters will always be spray and pray… (and heaps of fun) :grin:


In my main post I explained it very clearly how inaccurate my blasters were vs others.

And thanks to those people who did read the main post and provided good positive feedback and info on cylinder vs barrel ratio, spring size etc etc.

Merry Christmas

Spray and pray!!! Love it…
now that’s accurate! :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

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Hi I got hk 416 m y return spring stuff so I replace it and new plunger 90% cylander work really well for 3 hours now there no pressure won’t shoot what could it be please any one no

Hi Bryan,
Best to start a new topic in future.

Does ti still shoot or not shooting at all?
do you have an 11.1v in there now?
battery need recharging?

you say you only replaced a new return spring, or actual new spring in there? bigger spring = 11.1v battery most of the time.
What ever you replaced, open the blaster back up and have a look in there again.
If you added a new cylinder head, check it it may have popped out?

New plunger 1.28 spring new cylander 90% and return spring and new trigger everything else works but no pressure dosent shoot kindly could it be my return spring

ok, so you have a return spring and a main 1.28 spring in there But no 11.1 v battery!
if the spring is to strong big a 7.4v cant compress that spring size.

your issue wouldn’t be no pressure its that the battery dosnt have the force to make the gears pull that spring back.

The return spring woks when you have your gearbox ther and can depress in the tappet nozzel in and it will force its self back out.(test)

Your spring works when you can connect the gearbox to your battery with the barrel off and watch the piston and nozzel move in and out (test firing)

open it back up and have a look.

Or your anti reverse latch popped out when putting your gear box casing back on?
(that will cause it to not work)

There could be about 20x different things that may have happened, but you should be able to find the issue fairly quickly.