Thats good to hear.
I dont personally own an LDX but I’ve built four or five for customers and havent radiused one and they all seem to be going sweet.
Slightly different set ups but theyre all mainly running shs internals and shs high torque motor. 300-350fps and seem to be holding up fine at this stage.
Far as I know, as long as you don’t put in ridiculous spring, ldx box can last very long.
I’m running an ausgel 1.38, do you think this will be ok in the long run?
Nylon boxes can flex in use throwing your shimming out, and stripping threads is more of a thing too. Singularity gen 8 gearbox eliminates the stripping issue using nuts.
That being said, I wouldn’t be surprised at how many people overestimate the gains of a metal box
Going by what Ryan said above, I’d be going back a step to 1.28. That’s what will be going into mine once I open it up again
A radius potential near the screw hole would be to just lightly head towards the front of the box only and not the top. As long as you don’t get any closer to the screw hole it’s not affecting that particular issue to your detriment, and as soon as the sharp point is gone that’s a fault line greatly diminished
My ldx red is been setting up at 360fps and I have used it for over a year now, no problem so far
Edit: Blaster is 1 year
Box is nearly half a year
They’ve been out that long? Feels like it was only 3-4 months ago, definitely a good sign.
The box longevity of course, not my time recollection being out of whack
Lol, you got me. Sorry I forgot, the blaster itself is 1 year, the box is half a year, my bad, lol
Was gonna say. I ordered mine maybe 4 weeks into the release of them from overseas and I’ve only had mine 3 or so months 
Still, 6 months on an m120 spring and still going is a damn sight better than the 4 months with an m90 my first aps box got.
What happened to your box? Is it broken?
I have make a few minor upgrades though, like a damping piston head, then tweak my VE ratio to make the piston hammering as quiet as possible, Like Mr. Rattler suggested.
My ldx is fine, I was just comparing your ongoing results vs an aps box I had that was under considerably less strain.
It’s refreshing to see stuff lasting in our hobby
Well, as long as nobody think about 1.6mm and above, it will be fine. For me, I think M120(~1.5mm) is the border I don’t want to cross anymore.
Yep cool, just wasnt sure what m rating spring a 1.38 was equivalent to.
Hey Ryan, I’m running Chihai m150 motors in my two red LDX’s (still using 18:1) and they seem to heat up a bit (including the 11v battery). Would switching to a high torque like the SHS ones see my gearbox running better? Running 1.28 springs in both.
We worked out that the heating up is due to two reasons:
Low quality batteries - ideally, you’re gonna need good quality batteries with a high C rating (25C or higher) and a minimum of 1200mAh ACTUAL capacity. Cheap Chinese branded batteries won’t be able to supply to necessary current and will heat up more and faster. Also look at using a more robust connector like Deans or XT-30 rather than the stock JST connectors.
The motor heats up primarily because of the Active Breaking (AB) applied on the motor by the MOSFET. AB is where the polarity of the motor is reversed momentarily in order to bring it to a near-instant stop. This prevents overshooting but increases heat dramatically in the motor. There’s no way to disable this feature so it will likely come down to trigger control. Excessive burst fire or semi will likely heat up faster than full-auto as a result of the AB.
Thanks mate, I thought it could be the AB working overtime as I am on Semi quite often.
Am using the Xforce black label batteries with 1200MAH 25c 11v so I believe they should suffice although still on mini tamiya connections.
Yeah, switch your connectors, mini Tamiya are pretty shit. That battery should be fine, but yeah, the motor heat will be due to AB.
Ease off the semi and use burst fire or full auto bursts. The hot motor isn’t a major issue as long as it’s not melting your hand grip or wiring.