Batteries with new deans plugs stopped working - suggestions as to why?

Hello there.

Recently for my Vector, I used a 7.4v battery on it. With the mods that I installed, it was too much for the battery and it went poof and what not. The vector just needed an easyFET replacement but that’s all, its fine now. After this unfortunate event we went off to buy deans connectors and a new 11.1v battery. We installed the plugs the correct way and tried to test it. The first battery, a 2000mAh (probably not actually 2000mAh) SKD 11.1v, didn’t work. When we plugged it in, it was like no electricity was coming from the battery. It was fully charged and we had to push down on the battery side cables to get it to work. The second battery, some 11.1v 1800mAh one, did get electricity running to it, but had a different problem - its charge lasts for literally a few seconds. We plug it in, get a few shots out, and its dead again. It also just magically loses charge just lying around. And, additionally, when we plug it in to my B3 charger, when its fully charged only 2 cell lights will go green. The 3rd stays red. This is really annoying as these were my only batteries and now I got none. Do you guys have any ideas as to why this happened?

The mods are listed on this post I made.

The second one sounds like you’ve got a dead cell. The 3 cell batteries are essentially 3 3.7v batteries. If one dies. You’re done.

The problem with lipos is their very temperamental. If there’s even a chance while changing the connectors across you created a short circuit(even for a split second) there’s a good chance you either cooked a cell. Or the wires between cells may have broken off from too much current going through them(which I what I suspect for the first battery). Others here though may know a lot more than me on the batteries. Ive done my fair share Of battery change and their the only real problems I look for that can destroy them by simply switching heads.

Though I suppose the first one might not be giving a connection on one of the deans terminals and may need to be resoldered

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You are really helpful! Yes, when we were cutting the wires to even them out, I think the pliers we used actually allowed both the wires to make contact and burn out a cell, so big oof. We know what NOT to do now. As for the first battery we aren’t to sure what went on there. I do know that it has a secure connection to the deans as we drilled small holes in the sides where the wires go so we can slot them through, as the metal surface on the plugs was really slippery for some reason and the wire would just slip off.

If it’s slippery it generally means the tab where you’re soldering onto isn’t hot enough. I’m by no means an expert having taught myself only a few months ago but I generally have a couple grips of hot solder on my solder tip and put that down on the tab itself holding it on for a few seconds(it may also mean this way you might need to use a bit of extra flux or use some extra solder if it’s a rosin core). The solder makes a very good heat conductor. As the tab heats You’ll see that the solder will stick onto the tab. It’s difficult to explain and practice is the only real way to see the smaller details. But once it’s on you pull your soldering iron away and you’ll see the solder stays on the tab. Make sure you give your deans time to cool down too so you don’t melt any plastic. When learning i destroyed 2-3 heads by thinking it was easy cause it looked easy.

(Generally though you don’t want to hold the iron on too long. Quick and preside is the way for soldering)

Edit: making sure your wire is pre soldered too makes a world of difference cause then you just put the soldered wire onto the tab. Hold it on the soldered tab. It’ll heat up. Solder together and you’re done.

Apologies if you knew all this already

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No need to apologise man! We already had solder on the wires, yes, and the plug was really hot. It just kept slipping off so we drilled a hole to make sure it stays.

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What kept slipping off? The solder or the wire?

Both are falling off