Best soldering iron to buy

Hi there.
I am looking at getting a soldering iron to use for electronics etc etc lol.

Any suggestions would be helpful.
Are the cordless ones worth it?
Are the gas ones worth it?

Cheers.
.
.
.
“How long was I in the army? Five foot eleven.”

A Hakko like the fx888d is good

2 Likes

i have a ts100

my daily iron is a duratec

i’m in no rush to replace either. they do a good job

i remember a workshop hako very fondly

3 Likes

No to cordless or gas unless you have zero access to mains power.
They’re not easy to get to temperature or at holding it and it’s just another thing to think about.

Most these days have digital display, fast heat up ceramic elements and capable of 400C for large metal parts and desoldering.
I also look for lightweight handle, flexible cord, fused and ready access to replacement tips and where possible, replacement heating elements and temperature probes.
That usually means Hakko but there are many good, long-standing makes and equivalents
Some now come with SMC tips and desoldering heaters.
Am looking at several now since mine just died.

PS
With some tricky jobs, all that’s needed was solder paste and a jet lighter. :sunglasses:

2 Likes

We use the gas ones at work. Best thing about them is you can use them to cock heat shrink. But their warm up time is slow.

My at home one is a goot iron 20/200w.

Mate of mine ordered ours from japan when we were building our own battery pack while RV car racing many many years ago, talking pre brushless motors and the best batteries where nimh

This is close, https://www.jaycar.com.au/goot-240v-15w-240v-soldering-iron/p/TS1430

2 Likes

What solder wire to get is always my question.
There’s soo many different % of mixture and stuff…

i use the one the school provides :smile:

anything not lead free with a flux core is just fine.

there are really only two golden parts to any soldering job

the iron itself
the muppet weilding it

2 Likes

I know how to solder, rather good at it actually :sweat_smile:
But no one ever explain to me that the difference is between too the different types so yah.

I usually just get the thinner stuff for car wirings coz it melts quicker :sweat_smile:

For the last few years I’ve changed to using eutectic solder 63/37

1 Like

Mines your basic Bunnings $50 one. Does the job. Wouldn’t recommend it though. Cord is quite stiff and they put something on the top which makes it oxidised super badly. Took weeks to get it working right.

Find something better.

1 Like

I am Goot…

I used to use an ebay 2 temp plug in iron…

Until about an hour ago when Cruise made me buy one of these off of ebay badluck spanky throws bucks

1 Like

Mines built for dummies, Low, Medium and High. Nothing else needed I’ll likely break it :rofl:

2 Likes

When to use different types of solder.

Main sizes; 0.7mm and 1.0-1.4mm
Use depends on the size of the area, circuit pad or wires you’re soldering and it matters.

Small diameter for small jobs.
Use the thick on a small job and you can deliver too much solder and cover a larger area than intended, crossing over and shorting on other pins.
Desoldering to remove the excess is a bugger and the heat needed can loosen or burn components and lift lands on circuit boards.
For really small jobs like SMDs, lightly pre-tinning and a quick touch with a hot iron or heat g un does the job.

Large diameter for large jobs.
Use the thin one on a big job and not only do you go through the roll quickly, you can add too much resin and displace the solder.
It can look good on the outside but you end up with little metal to metal contact where it counts and risk the fragile resin joint coming apart when the resin dries and cracks.

The silver is an alternative.
It costs a little more, fumes are less toxic and conducts better but requires a higher temperature to melt than lead.

2 Likes

Just went to jaycar for a fume extractor and walked out with a butane torch , some desolder braid , solder , and this new soldering iron.


My 25w duratech can retire early.

2 Likes

So now i have temp control , what temperature do i use for say just joining wires etc lolol

Really spends on wore and solder melt point

I run mine hot enough to instantly melt the solder +10 degrees.

If you are getting dull brittle joints - too low
When you start getting peaks when pulling your iron away, too hot

1 Like

Does vary.
Start at 290. I’ve only ever had to go as high as 330 for large metal surfaces.

Oh jeesus thats way higher than i thought

It’s best not to handle the iron like the CSIRO science career ad girl does.

1 Like