Bullpup Blasters

Looking at buying yet another blaster :rofl: I want to find a good base bullpup style I can build on at home. The Tavor is way out of my league so I’m thinking the bf qbz95 or the Steyr AUG.
Anyone have any personal experience with these ? Good to build from ? Which is better ? Are they’re better bullpups out there I haven’t found ?


I can’t remember I think it’s @Cruise or @Spartan19 that has a qbz and there are a lot of us that have augs.

Personally I think the augs are amazing. A few tweaks and they are one of the best blasters in your kit. Good luck getting one though now. They’re all but extinct.

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don’t forget the fs2000

Spartans qbz and Aug are bought

Worth picking up a aug for $200 ? What upgrades are needed straight away ?

dual mosfet
t piece

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To add on hamishs comment. Longer barrel. Full cylinder.

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Last time I looked into doing the aug tac edge told me they couldn’t find a 100% cylinder that would work. Is it hard to find a 100% cylinder for it ?

Aug parts are standardised – 18:1 gears fit all etc.

Currently, new AUGs sell online for under $200.

eBay has plenty of upgrade parts for them, including 100% cylinders. Tac Edge must have been telling you bullshit as mine was a generic 100% from Monkey Mods.

Zhendou sells the complete gearbox and motor for $30.00 - I got a spare.

This is what I did to mine to upgrade it.

Green O-Rings
7.3 x 500 Barrel –stabilised
Ausgel 1.18 Spring
100% cylinder
V2 Tappet
V2 M4 Nozzle.
O –ring between the front and rear outer barrel sections.

The rest of it is OTB never changed anything else.

It hits around the 300 FPS mark.

I did try to fit a POM head but it had a larger diameter than the standard head and didn’t want to sit right in the gearbox shell. So I wrapped some Teflon around the original head and purchased the M4 Nozzle and V 2 tappet because the original nozzle didn’t have an inner O-ring seal.

The second place I had trouble was finding the right outer barrel set up for the front.
X-force sells a short metal barrel for the front, but it was too short for the look I wanted. Overcame that with a 4-piece outer barrel kit off eBay for $29 – I think the seller was the Lowkey Store from Sydney.

I didn’t want to stick a 30 mm diameter suppressor on it and couldn’t find a flash hider I liked that would cover the Rizer hop-up. Last week I ordered another Muzzletek from Azrael to solve both problems. TBH, I nearly didn’t put a hop-up on it as it is reasonably accurate and has decent reach with just the 7.3 barrel.

The circuit board went on the blink and only wants to fire automatic. I can live with that at the moment. I only run it at 7.4 volts. That said, I might buy a replacement circuit board and fit an aftermarket MOSFET once I learn something more about them.

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Im not sure if anyone has any stock in yet, but there is also the OTs 14 Groza out there somewhere

The only way is dual MOSFET, you already have a good system, it just needs protection added.
These are my mods,

and for the best info on saving your Mosfet, as well as becoming intimate with your AUG hehe, Look through this one. So much value in one topic.


What? I used my old j9 brass cylinder… just about any old cylinder should work with exception to the wells stuff as it’s a little shorter than most.

Tbh if you shim it right. You shouldn’t need to upgrade much. Mine has a 1.18 spring. Stock gears and motor. Running 11.1v without dual mosfet (I need to really get on that though).

Mine came from tac edge so it already had a custom t piece that I replaced. But it also came with a 50cm 7.3id barrel. So I didn’t need to change that.

I did some recent mods. Cut the outer barrel down a touch (the purpose was to sit the suppressor where I wanted it properly) and I’m using a dk-16 hopup which I absolutely love. It’s shooting 20rps. 310fps at 35+m depending on the day and gels ect.

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Morning Spartan.

I am still reading up about MOSFETS and haven’t much of an understanding of why putting in a second to protect the original is a good idea - doesn’t that just mean it would blow the 2nd one instead of the 1st if it arcs across the switch?

Still, I ordered a PICO SSR 3 from Azrael to stick into my Kublai that is coming in the mail. Might need to get another or an Easyfet for the AUG then work out to fit it.

The t-238s turned up for my 3DG the other day complete with microscopic install instructions, so that should be fun when I get around to having a go at fixing it.

Haven’t been to Brisbane as yet… might get there in a couple of weeks

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The second fet takes a lot more current so it won’t fry.

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hey @Jian

consider a mosfet (the component) a fancy tiny high current relay

then we have AB mosfets which actually have 2-4 mosfets that have a secondary function to stop the motor spinning as fast as possible

then we have fire control units which have mosfets as part of their implementation but are all about shot counts, programming options etm.

so at a basic level we use mosfets to switch high current to the motor away from the trigger contacts. if you’re using a micro switch this is a very good thing. still quite good if you are using a trolley contact.

now…some FCU have mosfet chips that aren’t very good for really high current or have pretty bad heat dissipation - so they tend to die - i killed one through heat the other day.

so where the FCU has something we want to keep but it can’t handle the current our upgrades are likely to draw, we put in a secondary mosfet specifically to handle that extra current draw

this secondary device could actually be a SSR, or a couple in parallel

if you are wanting AB, is absolutely has to be on and handled only by the secondary fet. any AB on the primary fet will result in overrun

probably still clear as mud but…hope that helps a little

Thank you, ZeH

Two types of Mosfet – Active Braking and Fire Control

Active Braking – Stops the motor running

Fire Control – Single and Burst fire regulation.

Blaster Mosfets prefer lower voltages as they are prone to breaking down and overheating

Microswitch contacts prefer lower voltages as they can arc out.

Putting the 2nd Mosfet between the battery and original Mosfet prevents the above issues from happening?

almost but you’re quite close…

Two types of Mosfet – Active Braking and Fire Control

  • two types of mosfets are N & P - but lets not go there today.
  • what you want to have in your head is active brake and not active break

Blaster Mosfets prefer lower voltages as they are prone to breaking down and overheating

  • not quite and its not specifically a voltage thing although it is a factor
  • components may indeed get damaged by higher voltage if they aren’t rated for it
  • higher current (motor, spring, shorter gear rations) can cause damage
  • if the higher current isn’t an issue, heat dissipation could be.
  • different builds and components dissipate heat differntly

Fire Control – Single and Burst fire regulation.

  • FCU is about those extra sexy functions - yes

Microswitch contacts prefer lower voltages as they can arc out.

  • microswitches melt but yes, arcing is part of the issue :slight_smile: and specifically affects trolleys
  • its a current thing primarily but voltage weighs in a distant second

Putting the 2nd Mosfet between the battery and original Mosfet prevents the above issues from happening?

  • sort of yes but not really between the battery and original mosfet
  • it sits along side the stock mosfet in an electrical sense
  • you pull the trigger, the stock mosfet fires but being connectedd to the secondary mosfet it acts like a trigger for the secondary
  • FUSE the positive immediately out of the battery
  • having a secondary transfers the current load and heat issues away from the primary.
  • if your secondary (easyFet for instance) doesn’t handle the current or heat very well you can still cook it but your primary won’t be affected

but you are with the program enough to make an informed decision on where to from here :+1:


Jesus fuck. I actually understood all that. Somethings wrong with me…


Been looking at one of these for myself… Good to hear they are pretty straight forward, and your post confirms others here regarding good range…
Is the muzzletek actually worth it? Looks the goods, but my favourite hop up cost me 11 bucks or something lol so I want a muzzletek, but I need to know they are good!

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Muzzleteks – I didn’t like the hype around them, but ended up buying one a while ago to try it out. I put it on one of my gas p*stols and it jammed the slide – so wasn’t impressed.

It is now sitting on my PMC AK74. Every time you move it from one to another, you need to loosen the grub screw that holds the inner and realign it because it just doesn’t screw on to finish in the same position.

Accuracy-wise, I don’t think it is any better or worse than any other hop-up. I wouldn’t say it does anything spectacular over the other hop-ups on the market.

Cosmetically, it looks a damn sight better than having a 150 x 30 mm suppressor hanging off the end of something other than an M4.

The Muzzletek is about 60 x 22 mm, so it doesn’t look too out of place on the AK and should look alright on the AUG.

They probably need a light dab of weak Loctite or glue to lock the inner piece insert once you have it aligned vertically.

Across the road about 30 to 35 metres is a power pole. If the neighbours aren’t around I can hit it shooting from inside the top floor of the house.easily without a scope or hop-up. I don’t want to make any outrageous claim about the range of the AUG, but a 7.3 alloy barrel is definitely the way to go.

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Are you saying my oil can is ugly??!!! :joy::joy: