Compression questions

AEG Automatic Electric Gel Blaster Jin Ming M4A1 GEN. 8, 9
#1

just looking for same random info guys nothing major

I’m just stuffing with a few things on my gen 9 I took it apart as the tappet spring broke so i decided to do some tweaking. i put plumbers tape under the o ring to push it out a bit and add more compression and it works well, however i changed my spring from a 1.28 to a 1.18 hoping for better grouping. The end result was a fairly sad working blaster with only the occasional gel coming out well. Should i go back to the 1.28 or reduce the compression in the cylinder? Is there a sweet combination i should be looking for? again its no major issue i can do what ever just looking to soak up some info and apply it when i look at it again. its too dark now to take it apart again tonight.

#2

Which o ring did you put plumbers tape under ? Hopefully not the piston o ring

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#3

i did sorry, i’m assuming a bad move then?

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#4

Very bad ! Remove it immediately :rofl:

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#5

no problem easy done, so just o ring alone is best then. is there a good way to add more ommpf as on videos they seem like its almost impossible to compress by hand when sealing well.

#6

The piston and o ring work like a valve and not just a piston, the o ring has to be free and unobstructed

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#7

Get a better o ring or slowly stretch the one you have a bit.
And you must use lube

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#8

i’m using the green o rings, was the very first thing i did to the blaster. i’m happy to give it a stretch out, just by hand or should i use warm water to assist? as far as lube any recommendations? i usually use inox as i get it from work cheap.

#9

The correct o ring will look like it is far too big for the piston and not look to be fat enough… especially if you are used to dealing with o rings on hydraulic rams or something pop

#10

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20191228_2020194032×2268 3.01 MB

thats an image of the plunger i made (yes made) as the red end did not suit the white stock plunger so i drilled and installed it in

#11

although now i removed the bearings and put a rubber washer in to reduce shock, so i was told by m4a1

#12

The bearing should be inside the piston… It will probably snap off how you have it and AOE will be way out…

#13

holy crap seriously? i can fix that easily at least, i really should have joined this forum weeks ago as you guys are like a blaster pit crew in my living room as far as help.

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#14

i even showed this picture to the guys at m4a1 and they were like “nice”

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#15

WTF Seriously there are tutorials and videos everywhere :thinking:

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#16

It should look like this

Full metal piston with 8 hole head 2-1100x1100
Full metal piston with 8 hole head 2-1100x11001100×1100 100 KB

Full metal piston with 8 hole head -1100x1100
Full metal piston with 8 hole head -1100x11001100×1100 111 KB

14 tooth metal 3 -1100x1100
14 tooth metal 3 -1100x11001100×1100 106 KB

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#17

The piston head should butt up to the plunger, the bearing goes inside the plunger for the spring to sit on. Some piston head kits have a plastic ‘gasket’ between the head and plunger body. The piston head and plunger body need to be like one…

Often a tap washer or rubber buffer is glued to the face of the piston, to cushion the blow when the piston hits the cylinder head… and set angle of engagement… :+1:

#18

wow yes do some yootoobing. Low Guido, Galapagasj are great for learning.

For oil/lube on the O-ring I use RC car shock oil as I have it on hand. It’s is silicone so won’t degrade the O ring 60-80wt.

Inox might be a bit harsh. Great for getting rusted bolts out, but maybe not the O ring and plastic in your blaster.

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#19

Btw is that an SHS nylon piston head ?

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#20

yes that is a shs nylon head. and the inox i have is the “food safe” mx6 as its says its great for bearings and o rings

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