CYMA S1897 Dive in and Mods

Had the short version for some time and while it often gets compared with the M97 and 870 it’s now advertised for $79 and I thought it was time I tore it down to see if it was worth even that little.

I had lost interest in most shottys after modding the twin-barreled M203 into one.
It’s still the only blaster that propels 2 gels at 250fps using a single cylinder, if that is you’re prepared to do a little DIY. :sunglasses:
Definitely nothing like it for under $40 but I digress.

Initial view

  • Hefty for a simple shotty @ 950g
  • Slide a little loose and rattles. Could be tidier.
  • Slide is on a sturdy metal tube, hence the weight
  • Alloy barrel appears unsecured and is recessed ~7cm inside outer.
  • Pump action is heavy

Test fire

  • WI Reds, can’t get any 2 fps close enough to say
  • Ultras, ~205
    Gels were straight for about 12-15m

Inside view

  • The outer barrel is held on by a screw cap that also attaches onto the metal slide tube below it. The metal tube is in turn screwed onto the action. Thread depth is good and it’s sturdy.
  • 2 different size plastic spacers supposedly stabilise the inner barrel inside the outer but these were loose and not secured. They’re now glued.
  • The pistol grip held onto the action by one massive allen bolt in the rear. This allows easy change to a buttstock if needed.
  • The tidy look of the action is actually a slip on sleeve that goes over the gearbox. It’s held in place by a screw either side.
  • The gearbox within is 2 halves held together with 15 screws, the pistol grip and where the slide tube screws on. That is a lot for a smallish action but no complaints there.
  • A single screw on the slide holds a thin iron bar that connects to the piston.
  • The spring is stiff. 1.5 x 15 x 160mm
  • The retracted piston is held by the trigger via a series of linked levers that makes it all rather light and although all nylon, should wear well and last longer than any sniper action holding back much less tension.
  • Two moulded nylon pins at the end of the spring retainer holds it securely in place and nothing goes flying when the action is opened. :+1:

Overall, it’s a clever design and it all works.



  • Top feed compartment holds about 60-80 gels.
  • Gels are gravity fed and the incline is slight so after about 30-40 shots you need to point down when you pump to ensure feeding.
  • Piston seal with the rubber cup is good
  • Nozzle is silicon and glued on
  • The barrel is 7.2x40. it is not glued and rotates freely, held in place by a groove that matches a circular ridge in the tpiece
  • 2 screws hold the tpiece together.
  • A retainer at the back of the tpiece stops double-feeding. This only works sometimes as the opening at the top of the tpiece is roomier than it needs to be.

All issues are minor and fixable. There is hope.

Pic below lists the little work done.

End result:
Slide now has a smooth and firm pump action with no rattling or double-feeding. No longer feels like you’re just pushing a spring.
I could keep pumping and firing with it shouldered and lined up.
Consistent 275+fps with WI Reds accurate to over 16m.
It should do better with a wider, shorter barrel.
Similarly consistent but much slower with AKAs at 225fps indicating just how much the long, tight barrel affected performance.

not bad for $79 and a few mods, especially with 4-5x the gel capacity of its rivals.


Thanks @Cruise i have the full S1897. I’ve been looking at the new XYL CA870 as an upgrade though.

A laser could be handy too. :sunglasses:

Had to replace rear sight with a rail to mount it. Kept front sight for looks so laser goes through it.
It’s definitely aligned. :grin:

Anyone tried adding these or is there another source/product?

Where’d you get the Teflon for the slide from? I’m either getting heat tape or thick stripping of it searching.

Online. They’re available in sheets and I always have some handy. Nylon would work just as well.

I’ve seen these at a couple other places but a bit more $$ obviously. I changed the barrel to an Ausgel 7.3mm to get a bit more length and fitted a basic hop-up, the original barrel had like scrap marks inside somehow. I was gonna look at the spring but when I opened it I was like “nah, I think that’s good :joy:” couldn’t get the retainer to budge so I didn’t push my luck.
I see there’s a little hole on the side of the grip, you reckon this would be suitable for a sling point? the plastic seems very sturdy there. otherwise I was looking for a stock, the buffer piece (never know what to call it) that the bolt goes into is the right diameter but the lugs are too thick for a gen 9 buffer tube, I had found a SPAS style folding stock that might fit, will try and find the link.

Most have them on the end or the bottom of the grip.
There are shotgun barrel sling mounts too.

I guess if I can find something to go on that thicc bolt, I’d only use a front sling point if I had a stock, can’t find that folding one I saw the other day now too, wish I had of bookmarked it.

Is that from real steel places?

Not sure. Haven’t really looked as I was going to use a shoulder holster.

So my problem with this blaster is after frequent use the pump handle broke where the little screw attaches to the charging arm. I have been thing about conversion to a vertical grip but don’t own a dremmel for the fitting of it. Was thinking of running 2 bolts through the charge arm and inbetween the barrel and the tube the pump handle slides on.


there is a replacement pump from Zhenduo, I can’t quite picture how you mean with the bolts thou. You could find some PVC pipe or even timber that would fit the mag tube or drill the timber to fit and attach the charging arm to that.

From memory the Remington or Mossberg pump handle does come with 2 charging rods. Have not looked at the fitting but worth a try.

Replacement grip from Zhenduo is cheapest option.
Or a drop down guard that goes over the slide.

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This is my problem

That looks highly fixable to me, esp since it’s a push function.

From memory that rod is secured by a small bolt.
I’d try putting a pin through the area instead either following the original hole or a new one at right angles to it.