Hard wiring a Vector?

I just watched a YouTube vid on a guy who said he hardwired his Vector, removing the motherboard.

I’m waiting for a new motherboard which won’t be here until next week so thought I’d give this a go.

Any links or instructions?

It would be easy enough.

You’d lose fire selection though and should probably upgrade the trigger switch

The gearbox sensor switch would be taken out of loop

Look for a gen8 wiring diagram.

Thanks for that, though it would just be temporary until the new motherboard board arrives. I want to show my gel blasters to some mates coming around tonight and I blew both boards!

If I were to do it permanently I would get the easyFET, which I’m going buy and have on hand as they are only 20 bucks. Would be great if they had a semi and burst fire mode

So when you remove the gearbox sensor, the gearbox just keeps turning over until you release the trigger whether it completes a cycle or not?

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That’s correct.

Not ideal for standing load but it’s a design feature of non fet boxes

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First off, I’m aware that op has grown a big bushy beard by now, however I was linked here so I’ll add my 2c for future stumbles… I feel like somebody should have mentioned the pre supply/feeding issues here before fire selector… It may be that everyone is aware but nobody said anything, so for pre supply you’ll need isolation between piston and mag motors, while still running both on trigger pull… Based on my m4ssys you can wire the slide switch on pre supply lever respectively left to right like 1.piston. 2. Mag 3. Common, this way both operate on trigger and isolate on pull back… I however ripped the wires out of fire selector and used the safe\off/auto\on terminals to keep piston out of circuit on safe mode then pull the trigger for pre supply, this was simpler to me as the wires are more local and who honestly needs semi or bust on a gelly, I love a gimmick but no recoil guys… Anyway there’s two simple ways for what’s available on most gear boxes… Ill also mention that u should upgrade wire sizes a fraction (relative to existing main supply/motor lines) as your motor current will now be flowing through ur switching path adding length to the run and also more terminations resulting in greater voltage drop issues, VD will ruin your day when those motors try to whir… At 90% rated voltage motors suffer a 19% drop in torque under same load conditions, being a square law you will be dealing with catastrophic failure at about 20% VD (. 8x.8 =. 64) running at 64% torque you will most likely be stalling the motor so don’t stand there holding a trigger in silence :thinking::wink: open it up check your connections are tight and re try, if confident there u may need bigger wire or less of it some how… Also when touching wires of any kind anywhere any size LABEL LABEL LABEL LABEL LABEL LABEL… Like seriously just label… Everything even the pen :thinking::black_nib::fountain_pen: sincere apologies this is so long lol if I had a dollar for every time I’d said that… This would be the first time I’d be getting a dollar for saying it.

Oh and you don’t need to remove the sensor unless by which you meant unplugging it lol sensor is simply a N/O contact limit switch… If not wired its just a clicker.

this, and the one below should be included in the friday funnies section.

and yes…its definitely a we didn’t mention it thing…

tbh i think for most of us we CBF

generally speaking i’m getting the impression most people are either replacing the mosfet or strapping a secondary to it.

This meaning your reply? Lol this… I’m already laughing

N I’m sorry but I disagree my post gave people the benefit of the doubt I was trying to not sound arrogant or insolent… You’re :lemon:

Who starts a new paragraph with “and”

now now…don’t be like that… we @ gbf make a point of collecting every scrap of knowledge, howtos tid bits and often the outright absurd and crazy for just this reason…

to give every crazy what the need to pew pew the way they want.

i had had another thought as i toddled off to do other things though…

the trigger switch in the vectors is a 2pos selector…i’ve never considered the current rating of such switches which may be problematic for anyone hardwiring their beasty.

and yes, i do enjoy a good mag feed but i’m one of those lazy ones that just have a couple squirts before pointing it at you. or him. or her or whatever

:slight_smile:

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Oh you’re one of those piston slap happy guys? Right

I’m not saying it will break or whatever but its good practice to not dry fire anything this way… Not even a slingshot

i see allot of, and i tend to help with allot of vector style queries.

they aren’t hard, just different and that throws some people.

the stock fet is a lemon once you start to really tweak the vector so somewhere along the way i cracked it and started using the stock fet to switch a secondary fet to run the motor.

you get to keep your sexy fire modes but don’t have to worry about frying the fet.

it all started with someone telling me it couldn’t be done…sooo many stories start that way :slight_smile:

piston slap ==== bbbbaaaaad juju…and sure the wooong of the spring is cute and all but its just otherwise so bad for so many parts in your blaster.

dry fire i have no position on…reality is if your parts are good, the build is good, you could probably dry fire until the cows come home…but if something is amiss, over the long term thats going to give you some grief.

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Sorry I disagree maybe it’s archery for years but dry firing makes my heart piss it’s pants

i would never dry fire a bow…

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Lol prove it… Do it until it either breaks or the cows have returned

So question related to this but not related to Vector as such. The Previous V2 G36C I had fried the select fire (I assume that is its mosfet) so would adding an easy fet between the battery and the select fire electronics possibly prevent them going pop ?

Cos I just got a replacement V2 G36C after I found the V3 absolutely dissapointing.

sadly not as simple as this. but conceptually yes.

with the secondary fet what you are actually doing is using the output on the stock fet to trigger the secondary.

an easyFet for a secondary is a solid choice because its on / off, nothing fancy and brutally robust.

remember when i said not as easy as that…well here it is… mosfets are switched via the positive, but in terms of output they switch the negative. you let the magic smoke out if you connect them directly.

i’ve been using small relays to handle the polarity switching. simple solution, seems to work well.

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Why use the output to trigger the next fet?