Hi~ i am new here, and i need some help plz

Hello friends :smiley:
i have very recently gave up on waiting for air-soft to pass in vic,
and decided to go down the blaster route because i miss shooting air-soft too much :sweat_smile:

I have purchased a 7 month old ACR j10 from a mate, bone stock except the two barrel stabler add on (front of barrol and the kind of H shape with a long bolt across the top), after a big bucket of gels and satisfying my inner 8 year old, i am founding the accuracy of the ACR rather disappointing, with my particular ACR, the accuracy seems to decrease after 5m, any further after that the gel kinda just goes where ever it want.

this is my first gel blaster, also the first time using electric type dispensing system,
so i have absolutely no idea if such accuracy level is normal or not,
i am judging its performance base on my experience with air-soft both manual and co2 powered.

just today i have installed 1.2 manganese uneven spring (apparently they last longer?), and a 40cm barrel, which will be cut down to maybe 35cm, also a dk-j10 hopup, all in the hope to increase accuracy and distance a little bit more, but it didn’t seem to help much in the accuracy department :frowning_face:

My hope is to at lease be able to have a palm sized grouping at 10m distance,
is that achievable with gel blaster??
if so, what else would i need to upgrade?
also i mainly shoot in single fire mode, so i fire rate is not important to me, i just need accuracy, the more accurate the better :pleading_face:

Please help me :frowning_face:
thank in advence

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Hi and welcome. Unfortunately, gel blasters are notoriously inaccurate (as in using optics or sights) although once one knows where to point the barrel to get a hit… things (and the other team) can be hit quite accurately… I find it is easier to sho0ot just by where I know the barrel needs to point… start sho0oting and direct the spray laughing (1) It is referred to as ‘spray and pray’ rofl

Many people want to be able to snipe members of the other team from 30 ish meters… looking through some sort of sight… but, even tho some say they have ‘very accurate’ blasters… I have never seen any video of someone hitting a can at 20-30M by looking through a scope or optic…

It is fun to chase that sort of accuracy from a gel blaster, however, I can’t see it happening any time soon badluck They are referred to as ‘blasters’ for a reason… otherwise, if they were accurate (sight accurate) they might have been called ‘gel rifels’ or something

Gel blasters are toys, and man, are they fun like

Don’t give up chasing the accuracy you are hoping for… if you find it, please share with us MAGA

205qlh4

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Welcome me to the group! :+1:

Gel blasters are huge fun, but it’s important to remember that they are basically toys, and they have definite limits when it comes to accuracy. A round flexible ball is going to do what it does regardless of blaster mods.

The best way to get accuracy is to start with the seals and spring size. Overpowered blasters hit harder than stock, but the more FPS the higher the innacuracy usually. The sweet spot seems to be around 280-300 FPS, so your choice of a 1.2 uneven spring’s pretty safe if you’re running stock nylon gears, anything over 1.3 and you’d have to be considering metal gears.

With your barrel length, I suggest you check out Galapagos J’s Youtube channel, he has a vid about barrel to cylinder ratios that will help you a lot. Go too long, you lose power… too short you lose accuracy. GJ’s put up a guideline chart that you may find useful.

Other than that, upgrading o rings, sealing the t piece, fitting an alloy cylinder head & nozzle, and making sure you have no air leaks is the best way to maximize performance, or at least gets you to to a solid start point. A decent hop up will help with distance accuracy too.

Lastly, quality gels play a big part… it’s subjective but harder gels like AKs, Armour Tec, War Interest hardened milkies will have a straighter trajectory than the low quality gels supplied with the blaster. They deform less in flight making them a little more predictable.

Keep in mind that most build principles for @ir5oft don’t translate successfully to gel blasters. Totally different animals…

Have fun with it all, modding blasters is a very deep rabbit hole… once you go down it, you’ll find it hard to stop :joy:

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You are never going to get A/S accuracy but a palm size grouping at 10m is definitely achievable with a gel blaster :+1:
Experience is the key, understanding how things work and choosing the best cylinder to barrel volume ratio and a good hop up adjusted correctly, plus inner barrel stability.

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Also quality gels grown to the correct size to suit the id of your barrel, also the DK J10 needs a lot of adjustment and I found it needs to be adjusted almost all the way down

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Thank you for the reply ^^
yah the lacking in accuracy out of the box is just… really sad lol,
even for a toy that cost more than aud$100,
i mean if u conver that to NTD (taiwanese dollar), which is about 2.2k,
you can get a quite decent co2 powered bb that shoots nice grouping out of the box :sweat:

the only time i really used the sights are to line it up to target of intend, then see how the trajectory of the gels are in relation to that line of sigh when i adjust hopup, otherwise i generally shoot with out using any kind of sigh assist. that’s also why i am trying to achieve tight grouping rather than accuracy-to-sight :frowning_face:

but ofcoz, i will play with it, testing out new method and see what happens haha
i generally don’t give up until i have exhausted all possibility, so wish me luck :joy:
if i do find a way, i will certainly share it~

thanks for the welcome man :smiley:

i have pulled the ■■■ apart to check out the internal design, and yah they do seem a bit bristle even said to be nylon construction, thats why i thought i start with the 1.2 spring just to be safe :sweat_smile:
i would like to ask, what is the benifit of alloy cylinder & nozzle and all that?
because if its only concern in regards to air leak, i think i might have ways to seal the plastic ones from leak just as good, or close to that of metal construct (maybe), thats why i didn’t purchase those metal internals with my initial upgrade

thanks for the tips on the gels too! i was wondering what kind i should get!
was trying to find some 7mm bb and test it out with those lol, but failed to find any so far,
so hardened gel seems to be the next best thing :smiley:

Also the vid by Galapagos J is most helpful!
was listening to it in the background while typing this reply up!
thank you for that :relaxed:

I fear no rabbit hole for its depth
The fear is with in, for that I consciously wanting to go deeper
Knowing there is no end…

much to learn!
and i will not stop until i achieve my aim haha :sweat_smile:

wouldn’t adjusting it all the way down almost make it redundant = .=??

Well it has to apply the back spin and if it needs a lot of adjustment then that’s what it needs

The idea is to match the barrel to the cylinder size to get the best volumetric efficiency out of the set up.

Alloy barrels seem to be produced to tighter sizing tolerances, plastic barrels tend to be random. Alloy also gives better rigidity and less barrel flex, critical thing when you’re chasing repeatability ( don’t get hung up on pin point accuracy, you’ll never achieve it with gels). Important to stabilize the inner barrel to the outer, the outer to the handguard… it all contributes to the consistency of the performance.

Running bb’s or anything else hard will only destroy your blaster. These toys require some flexibility of the gels to function, even Ultras and Alpha King gels give a little. Recommend Galapagos J again, his vids are technically very helpful and informative when you’re getting your head around certain principles.

Have fun with it, but keep in mind these blasters have performance limits, and when you start modding, you’ll find those limits pretty quickly. :+1:

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i see, thanks for the info :grin: :grin:

couple question tho, firstly, how do you stable the inner barrel to the outer?
at the moment i have a piece of paper jammed in between the gap at the tip of the plastic tube thats inside the hand rail, that seems to make at least the tip of the inner barrel stable when i wiggle it.
as to securing outer barrel to the hand rail, i do have 2 stabiliser in there as i mentioned, however, i find that plastic H shaped secure piece on top extremely flimsy (the thing that slids onto the outer barrel and that metal bar thing on top), can those be upgraded too for stability? or unnecessary?

also during my research on parts, i came across some “metal outer barrel”, but i am no sure if they are to go into the blaster where it threaded into the main body, or an extra extension, coz some were rather long O_o

secondly, if i do upgrade to metal cylinder components, does that mean i absolutely have to upgrade to metal gear? or not really? because i notice on some listing it says the gears have a 18:1 gear ratio, which i assume is to increase fire rate, but that’s not what i need, i wouldn’t mind upgrading to metal gears too provided they are the same gear ratio as original, but what is the original gear ratio?

I use a few wraps of masking tape in 3 places, put a few wraps on and try it until you get a good fit but not tight.
Get this outer barrel set

For outer barrel to handguard I use one support near the muzzle end like I posted in the other thread.
Oh I assumed you had metal gears, yes you need metal gears to use a metal rack piston .
You don’t have to go 18:1 but I reccomend that until you gain some experience .
The stock gear ratio is 18:1 .
Also do not buy cheap cast metal gears because they won’t last.

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Shit ! Wrong guy sorry :blush:
But prolly still relevant?

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@Rattler Haha! But yeah, relevant just the same… ya gotta love electrician’s tape for stabilizing barrels. :+1:

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Lol funnily enough I don’t like electrical insulation tape for this job, the glue is too rubbery and it tends to slide around or off.
I prefer masking tape or normal clear tape.

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Funny you should say that… :joy: I’ve had great results with blue painter’s tape too… seems to slide on in pretty easily so you can go a little tighter with it.

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yah it totally relevant :+1:
i actually used masking tape cut to 1mm strip to seal the bit where the inner barrel T piece connect to that hole on the body where the air nozzle sticks out from, coz i couldn’t find a o-ring laying around that fit the job lol

as with the barrel set, i am guessing that is for extension from the standard muzzle area at the front?
what i am think on looking for is something that replace the outer barrel before that, so the whole section inside the hand guard area, however none of what i’ve seen seems to work with the stabliser piece at the front (the circled area, no sure what its called)

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is there a metal barrel design to work with that piece?

You should not use tape to seal the inner barrel into the t piece, it really needs gluing in.
No these are used to replace the entire outer barrel, and use a different support,your barrel should have a 14mm reverse thread and you remove it and replace it with these, the pack has different lengths that can also be joined to make any length you need.
Or just buy something like this.

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no no, no the inner barrel to t piece,
u know how theres a hole where the T piece goes into, where the piston nozzle stick out?
i put tape around that side of the t piece to seal it a bit