Hints and Tips - Soldering

Hello fellow Blasterers!

I was wondering if we could put together a Quick Reference doc for people new to Blaster modding/repair etc.

It would be great to get peoples hints, tips and tricks into a document.

I know we could just use tubetube vids etc but to me anyway a printed reference chart is quicker to use.

If you just post the stuff in here then I could put it all together in some sort of QRC

(or maybe it has already been done)


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Blaster Quick Reference - Hints and tips - SOLDERING

–From Arty_Marty–

Few tips on soldering…

I know you can get lead free solder but it really is a shit of a thing to work with. I use stuff with lead in it. I use this: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cE8LwHUG

Solder comes with flux in it usually, which is good, and flux is your friend. Doesn’t hurt to add more, makes the solder flow really nice. That way it’s a quick job and you don’t end up melting stuff. This is great flux: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/jgogX36

some cheap flux can be corrosive so it’s always best to clean it off when you’re done. I use this from jaycar: https://www.jaycar.com.au/electronic-circuit-board-cleaner-spray-can/p/NA1008

always helps to ‘tin’ the end of a wire with a bit of solder before you solder it to something and sometimes tin the thing your soldering it to. Some chrome looking connectors sometimes don’t want to let the solder take to them unless you get them really hot. If you scratch them up a bit first with knife/sandpaper/file etc (then clean it up with that spray or alcohol if you used sandpaper) flux it then it will tin beautifully.

get good soldering iron tips. It’s worth it. Keep them clean and shiny. Don’t let them get too hot. ONLY use them for soldering. If you need to use a soldering iron to melt something like plastic, use an old shitty tip for that.

Get a soldering iron with adjustable temperature. That way if your trying to solder something big that needs a lot of heat you can crank it up. Remember to turn it down again immediately after. (So the heat doesn’t screw up the tip)

don’t solder to stuff that is turned on /has battery connected.

DON’T solder directly to lipo batteries

those gas powered soldering irons that aldi has are a good second soldering iron for where you can’t get power for your normal one. They are also good if you’re trying to solder to a big chunk of metal and can’t get it hot enough. Use the gas one and your 240v one at the same time to heat the thing up enough THEN solder on the wire.

A bendy arm with an alligator clip on it is good for holding wires so you can keep everything still and not burn your fingers.

put heat shrink on your wires so things don’t short out. (and remember to put it on before you solder, I still forget sometimes haha)

DON’T EVER be tempted to solder a wire that you’re going to put in a screw connector terminal. It makes a really shitty connection. They can become loose because the solder is soft, or as the solder oxidises. Then it can arc and melt shit. People have burnt their house down from doing this on the heat bed connector on their 3D printer. If you’re not happy with a screw terminal clamping onto copper wire directly, get a crimp connector that goes over the wire. Then screw to that.

Oh, and get a good multimeter. Great for checking if there is a broken connection, voltage of something…

Oh and the final tip on soldering… If it smells like burnt chicken, your holding the wrong end.

–From Matth1000–

Check out rc model reviews or xjet. Same guy different channel but has a great tutorial on soldering.
Stay away from lead free solder. Only use black heat shrink. Get a haiko adjustable soldering iron. Expensive but will be the last soldering station you buy

–From Calcifer–

This is good flux/soldering fluid for making soldering easy… it is ‘Bakers soldering fluid’ …It is something that will last for years. My bottle I bought in the 90’s and is still going. I just have a long art/hobby brush and when I am going to solder something, I brush a little on the pad to be soldered on to, then tin it… the solder sticks like shit to a blanket… rather than rolling off. Then brush a little on the wire and tin that… then stick the two together. Yes, it is $25 bux… but it is 250ml … I have seen 10ml bottles of similar stuff for $10… so, unless you knock it over, it will last for ever…


Do i need to buy more rosin and flux if my solder is not joining merging to wiring?
Like the solder stays on top of my iron and dosnt let go no matter how many passes or not hot hot i do.

Plz hlp

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You possibly have poor solder, I’d get a new roll of solder, clean both sides up first and get some heat into both ends before adding the solder. It should take.


Get some flux anyway, all soldering goes better wirh extra flux.
Also make sure if it’s a new iron that you tin the tip properly.
Search YouTube for tips on tinning your iron.
Also don’t make the iron too hot or it won’t stick, 300 to 320c is good, plus you really want and iron of about 60 to 65w to solder XT60’s


Also, some cheap ass wire like the braided shield on cables etc is made for crimping not soldering so is a nightmare to solder.

And lead free solder might be better for you and the planet, but it’s shit to work with… I gave up on it years ago…


F**K lead free solder !


Yeah, nah, yeah… I like my solder with EXTRA lead Bigballs

When soldering, you need a wire brush to make sure the tip is clean (brush while hot) (the iron, not you)laughing%20(1)

You need a wet sponge to wipe the hot tip on (the iron, not you) and after this, tin (put some solder on) the iron’s tip.

You need some extra resin or ‘bakers soldering fluid’ and I use a small arty farty brush and brush a little Baker’s on cleaned pad or whatever you are soldering to…

I dip the wire or both wires in the soldering fluid before twisting (or brush some on the wrapped twisted un tinned wires to solder). If joining 2 tinned wires… dip both into BSF or resin … touch together using soldering stand with aligator clip thingies… and the solder on the iron should be sufficient.

Don’t pull on or bump a newly soldered joint for a few seconds… until it is really hard (the joint, not you) laughing%20(1)

I have had a bottle of this since about 1997 and it is still over half full… :grin: just don’t drink it… it is acid (and tastes awful) drink puke2 puke3


Oh, and always bring the soldering iron tip up from under wires being joined (heat rises) and add solder from the top… Pads, tin quickly then tin the wire, a brush of the tinned pad with resin/BSF touch the wire to the pad and solder from side if there is no pad right next door, or from the top, pressing the iron on the wire quickly…

Hot soldering irons are not good for electronics… do it fast, do it well :grin:

Practice on any old electronic circuit boards you can find:money_mouth_face:

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Well shitk, J car no longer sell lead solder. went in to check. Bought rosin flux though.
never knew i had to tin the soulder.
My iron is a cheap one that has only 1 heat setting, lol got no idea how how it gets.

You aren’t actually tinning the solder… you are tinning the wires or the cleaned pad or tag you want to solder to… so you clean the pad (for example), then brush on a little resin, tin the clean iron tip, then put a little solder on the pad, then put a little more flux on the solder on the pad… touch the tinned wire to the pad… then a quick touch with the iron on the wire while holding the wire in place for a few seconds. :+1:

The iron is hot enough if you clean it with a brush, then wipe it on the wet sponge… then touch the tip with some solder and the solder melts easily on contact. If the solder almost explodes/vaporizes on contact… the iron may be too hot. I bought an iron off ebay… 2 heat settings… cost about $12

However, I am a self confessed Cheapass

Edit: woops… I just said that said that ^ laughing%20(1)

I am your polar opposite :blush:
I do enormous amounts of soldering and use Goot Japanese irons, they are a joy to solder with :+1:

Mine is no goot at allbadluck

Just like the operator avatar_22


Do you mean 100% lead solder? You can get 60/40 solder from there, which is what I use.



Yeah, most solder has a tin component… just as long as the other component (other than the tin) is Lead :+1:

Besides, if there was no tin in the solder, only lead… how could you ‘tin’ your iron? You would have to 'Led ’ it instead?:rofl:

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ahh, the j car tech didnt know what he was talking about, jsut found it and didnt know led was PB on table of eelments.

Every day i go out to buy something from either m4a1 gel blasters or jcar or anywhere if its for gel blasting i seem to end up getting the wrong thing or given the wrong thing or sold something that is faulty.


Yeah, electronics salesmen are usually uni students who no one else will employ noidea (personal opinion) laughing%20(1)



Be careful with that Bakers flux @Calcifer. It is acid like you said and can really make a mess if you don’t clean it off. I’ve seen boards 4 years later that are corroded to shit from that

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You don’t dip the board in it… you just brush a little on the pad laughing%20(1)

Shit dude, do you ever sleep? No matter what time I write a message, you reply in 5 seconds :joy:

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