Hopup Venting.. yes or no?

Quick question about hop ups…

Most have side vents to allow the hopup to work properly, but I’ve noticed some don’t.

Are the vents absolutely necessary? Sweetheart hopups obviously seem to do okay without them. :thinking:

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Personally I avoid the vented ones, i think they’d cause drag and make you lose fps and accuracy. I’m probably wrong, but just an assumption I made

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I don’t think they really do too much. I’ve used both vented and non vented (my fav hops easily being the dkj9/10) and proving their tunes right they seem to work the same (except my nylon warinterest hopup. It’s rubbish :joy:

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I’ve never noticed a difference in the ability to tune a hopup based upon the venting.

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Not a lot of choice around with hop ups these days… nobody has stock. :thinking:

A retailer told me today that a lot of China based suppliers are witholding shipments to Australia because of the current tension between our governments… great. Longer waits for shit from overseas. :roll_eyes:

Little tip… If, like me, all you can get your hands on is a cruddy 3D print hopup, take the time to sort a fairly annoying issue first.

I found that the print lines on the inside of the hopup were so coarse that the bottom tube had as much texture as the tongue… no hop up going on at all and gels everywhere. Carefully sanded the inside print lines out with 1200 wet and dry everywhere but the tongue, works pretty well now. :+1:

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The real pew pews still have unburnt powder and side, top or rearward venting to reduce the flash, counter muzzle lift or reduce recoil all makes sense.
Gbbs have mostly expended the energy from the compressed air by the time the gel reaches the muzzle and the shockwave from the air in front of the gel is neglible.
So probably all about looks and for careful gels that like to look out the side before stepping out.

PS
While you’re sanding your 3D hop ups, why not add a coat of superglue. They usually have layering weaknesses somewhere. :+1:

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There has been some studies on vented paintball markers which say it can improve the stability of paint in flight depending on vent pattern and placement, but they deal with higher pressures and more volume than our pew pews, but I agree purely cosmetic at this stage…

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alternatively you can run some acetone or acribond 105 down the inside/outside of the hopup, smoothes it and fuses all the layers.

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That’s good… cos the hopup I just fitted to the FN is pretty miserable compared to the usual Rizers, no side vents, top plate only. Works okay with a bit of tweaking though👍
@Cruise nice idea… superglue, polish… smoother than a pornstar’s… manager. :blush:

I’ll take your word on it. :rofl: