J10 ACR upgrade issues


I just had a stage 1 upgrade done (green o ring, 7.5mm barrel and a 1.3 spring)

Since that I can feel the motor heating up and my lipo 11 volt dies in just under 2 hours (I’m not trigger happy and only do short bursts) before the upgrade it would last all day.

I’m guessing it’s because of the spring. So what size spring should I use? Should I keep it at the stock 1.1mm?

Also would it help to get a 7.1mm barrel for accuracy instead of the 7.5mm? I already have a hop up.

Thank you!

2 hours out of an 11.1v battery is awesome… I get about 3-4 magazines out of mine and the low voltage buzzer goes off… are you using an 11.1v LiPo or LiOn battery? (round/cylindrical or square?)

The motor is enclosed in the airtight grip with your hand around it keeping the heat in… so it has NO cooling at all… so it will get very hot. It will get hotter faster doing short bursts than it would running longer (it takes more battery to start and restart the cycle than to start it and keep it running)… but if the motor is run for long periods, the motor can eventually melt the hand grip (or burn itself out).

So, there is nothing wrong with your blaster, that is just how they are. When you feel it getting uncomfortably hot… you have to give it a break… that is why most of us have more blasters than one :+1::grin:

I cant understand why motor cooling has not been included in blasters… all RC planes, helicopters, buggies and boats… they all have airflow cooling the motors… our blasters are all completely airtight, for want of a better word.

The barrel size (id) depends on what gels you use. I have different barrels for different gels… you cant squeeze a 7.3mm gel down a 7.1mm barrel nor get any fps out of a 7mm gel in a 7.5 mm barrel

The best result in fps you can achieve in our blasters is to have the correct size gels for the barrel… so you need to measure the gels you are using and fit the correct barrel for that size gel…

1.3mm is a good thickness spring… especially when the O ring has been done and you have no leaks around the T piece and a good alloy or brass barrel :+1:

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Check out Guido’s video where he measures and grades sizes when testing gels… all of his videos are awesome… there is lots of them… Watch them all when you get time…

His videos have taught me most of what I know about our toy blasters :+1:

Check his channel on his video on comparing the new, heavier white milkies (part 2) he has an ingenious method of sorting gel sizes

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Thanks mate. Very helpful!


We are lucky enough to have him on this forum, I reckon what he doesn’t know about blasters, isn’t worth knowing… his videos cover almost all aspects of gel blasters and are very thurough :+1:

Edit: Which type of 11v battery are you using? LiOn or LiPo?

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Hi i had the same upgrades as above but the gels are spraying a lot more and the hop up doesn’t make much difference.

I have those batteries… they are good, but don’t last long…

buy a new one , or try use the inner tube stabilizer, that would help

They need alloy heat sink plates to spread the heat
But more blasters the better u have a excuse to buy more lol

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Sorry, that can be read two ways… I was meaning the batteries get exhausted quickly… the batteries will probably last for years if charged and stored correctly… and never let drain below 3.4v or so (per cell)pop

Hmm Im gonna fence sit on this, I’m running boslipo batteries and can get mostly a whole night out of one battery. My acr and wells is not huge but not standard either. Both pushing around 350 fps with 1.3 type springs. When I had the 1.4 spring in it would chew up the battery in about 10 mags, but it also cracked the gearbox head dowls. I suspect the turnigy batteries are better but fckng hard to get hold of as they sell out before they hit the shelves!!
Anyway, just my opinion.

I only use 1.18 unequal springs and with a Turnigy 25/50c I get around 10 mags and the battery is around 3.7v/cell.
I use a lot of semi though and active brake.
If you want kick ass batteries look at the Titan 2600mah batteries, 20mags minimum on a charge


I guess it depends on how far down you run the battery, I don’t really know what they’re at till I hook them up to the charger. I do pack a multi meter in my kit but rarely use it unless I have too. Mostly they are on about 10.5v give or take .3v and I do use full auto mostly- spray and pray. I go thru around 3-4K gels in a night.
But as always it’s horses for courses. What works for one may not work for another!


Ok cool that’s about 3.5v/cell which is fine.
Agree 100% about horses for courses :+1:


You can get voltage meter and cut off buzzers and all sorts to clip on your balance lead for a few dollars that are small enough to stuff on your blaster somewhere. Even some Velcro, balance extension lead and run it up on your receiver somewhere if it won’t fit inside. Options are endless. Well worth it for simplicity, have a shop around and see what suits you.
As for Lipos I have been using them for years on RC stuff. I have yet to see a blaster battery live up to it’s claim. Not that I’ve seen all of them. Mate got an “upgrade package” with a 11.1v battery for his ACR which is labelled 2000Mah. Lol it’s a third the size of an actual 1300Mah battery I run in my Aug. Yea his went flat after 2 hrs, I kept blasting away.
I’ve switched my blasters over so they are common with my RC stuff and use mostly Turnigy Lipos, already had the chargers, swapped out to my common XT-60 connectors after one of the JST SM wires pulled out and crossed frying the board on the Aug, that was the final straw for me.
Each their own, I just happen to use these types of batteries for another hobby so I cross them over for simplicity.
As a side note I’ve noticed the v3 Aug must have a low voltage cut off on that board as it just stops once volts get down. Tested on 3 of them mates bought. That’s cool.


I’ve been pondering how to integrate easily…a lipo alarm into my kit for some time

So far, I’ve just bought MOSFETs with lipo safety built into them

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