LeHui Scorpion EVO Dive In And Mods

Hokay… let’s start up another budget blaster pimp out thread. This one’s a nylon LeHui Scorpion Evo with select firing and folding stock.


These got pretty good reviews back in the day. Out of the box this particular unit is a little uninspiring. Build quality is good, nylon construction. A few strange things internally… wires pinched, rusty rebar weights, etc.



Planning on putting in a new harness, wiring’s a little sub par.
16 screws in the body, all the same size.

On the chrono this produced an uninspiring average of around 120FPS, so clearly some sealing issues to address.
The gearbox is old gen clear acrylic, t piece looks awfully Vector, plastic gears by the look of them. Short plastic barrel and plastic t piece. Plastic piston and cylinder.


As far as toughness is concerned, not exactly rock solid, but not too bad compared to maybe the BLG M16. The charging handle, trigger, battery compartment closure and all the pic mounted accessories are ABS and feel flimsy at best…

Diving in to find out why the FPS is so low, I’m guessing sealing and t piece issues. Back in the day, these weren’t too shabby so I’m expecting around the 230FPS range in unmodified form.

Once it’s working well in stock trim the serious stuff begins. :+1:

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I’m loving these budget blaster pimp outs mate, loving em. I’m drawing some serious inspiration from them.
You’ve got talent my dude, not just with the building of the actual blaster, but in the way you present your findings and show your workings. Please keep it up…
(You’re going to start getting requests soon I can see it :sweat_smile: )

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NOOOOOO!
20200701_092344

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Yep, 16 screws again :rofl::rofl:

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Progress report : Sorry guys, it’s a bit of a marathon read… I hope there’s some useful info in it :joy:

Pretty easy take down. 16 screws, into nylon which is a bonus. Been apart a few times and no signs of stripping screws. Recommend a gentle hand however. :+1:

Once the shell’s split the barrel and t piece come out easily. The cover for the priming switch comes off to remove the switch. The motor cage is two screw removal, I decided to drop the trigger switch wires to leave me with just the box with no loom. The motor cage is two screws to remove, simples. Nice clean gearbox.



Suprised to find a 1.3mm spring in this… more suprised to find about 1mm clearance between the factory o ring and cylinder, zero compression, hence the low initial FPS. One green o ring later, full compression. Standard spring back in, average 230FPS… respectable for it’s age.:+1: Cylinder and nozzle are one piece plastic.

Nothing under spring pressure jumps out when the box is opened. The anti reverse latch was twitchier than a belly dancer with Tourettes, particularly at 11.1v, sometimes failed to latch . I relocated the tensioning leg to the screw lug directly above it to give it a bit more oomph… worked a treat.


Mag catch and release is janky, no location for the spring against the shell


Tried a longer spring but it bound up and felt worse

Back to standard setup for now but will be addressed.

To reassemble, once the motor and loom are back in place and trigger wires resoldered (putting plugs on these next take down) locating the box correctly into the shell is a bit tricky because of the fire select assembly. The selector switch on the body actuates this little puppy which lifts up the trigger mech to break contact for safety setting.


As the shell comes apart you’ll hear an audible click which is the back of the selector switch disengaging from the pin. On reassembly this lever

has to be depressed by levering it down via the aperture holes in the gearbox shell on the right hand side.

Push the gearbox into the left shell with the switch in semi auto… depress the internal actuator and you’ll here it click in and the box kind of locks in. Be careful at this point, a slight knock will dislodge it. Drop your other shell half on and do up those 16 screws.

Now that it’s performing as it should have OOTB and I’ve kind of got a baseline, next job is getting that FPS up around 280 -290. May be a bit of a strech with that plastic cylinder / nozzle, but it’s going to get there. :joy:

Oh, knocked up a scope for it inbetween fettling too :+1:

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Thanks for the tips.
What’s in the long black bit under the top rail?

That’s the battery cover… part of the top pic rail, it slides backwards and opens on a hinge… which broke on mine 10 minutes ago :laughing: Part of the battery box rejig’s going to make that redundant anyway.

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I forgot to mention, the t piece is similar but not identical to a Vector t piece, but the stock plastic barrel is obviously from the KV line… 10mm O.D. Good enough reason to go 9.5 O.D. alloy.

Agreed.
I’d drill or melt a hole where the trigger spring is and put a screw there so a new spring stays.

I tried that but there isn’t much spring length to work with… found the screw limited the movement of the mag catch.

Did this instead


Shortened the spring spigot so there was a bit more room to move. Not great engineering but seems to work smoothly enough for now.

Also built up the contact point of the trigger to get rid of some of the horrendous play. Trigger feels dead on safety, that little spring doesn’t do much.

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Beefed up the priming handle to prevent snappage… just epoxyed this al plate vertically behind the handle to give it something to brace against and take out all the wobbleocity… works well.

LeHui used the wierdest switching in these… the mag prime and trigger switches are on/off and latched is the term I believe. Could be wrong there… don’t know much electrotech. :exploding_head: A physical actuator to turn on and another one to turn off on the return stroke. :thinking:

Started playing with paint… looks awfully stormtrooper but it’s only undercoat.

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An ON/OFF charge switch? No one could be that silly.

Yeah, the trigger switch is an identical on / off switch but a spring loaded plate pushes it off again when you let off the trigger.

It’s weird when you prime… pull back on the charging handle and the mag motor fires… If you let it forward slowly it’ll prime for the full length of the travel until it’s home and then the mag motor stops. The switch actuators are about 5cms apart. :laughing:

I’ll have to see it.

You will when the screws come out on yours, Cruise. :wink:

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Flat white is a bitch to handle… get any schmoo from the gearbox on your hands and your blaster’s filthy :joy: won’t be skimping on the clearcoat with this one.

You’re keeping those pansy colours? :anguished:

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Not entirely… :joy: but there’ll be enough of the original colour to recognize what it is. Here’s where I’m at with paint



Everything orange will be black
Everything white will be snow camo
In the meantime, I’m late for my meeting with Darth Vader up on the Deathstar

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My version of urban camo… for the mag anyhoo.

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Stock

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