This is to vendors. Please stop lying about lipo battery power. Be honest about the actual output of the batteries you are selling. If it says 2000MaH and my B6 charger says 600MaH from empty to full charge I will ask for a refund every time.
With the conversion rate 2000mah AU = 600mah China
Its been done for ever and the cheaper the battery the bigger the conversion rate
Aussie vendors are just passing on the same rubbish at 100% mark up. @LowGuido posted an excellent video about batteries. I will repost it. Vendors pay attention, honesty will earn customers trust and purse strings.
because muppets like me with nice chargers measure such things and then tell all our friends…
so vendors who lie lose sales as we move toward vendors who label correctly
It’s actually endemic in the battery industry, not just for hobby lipos. Suggest you all check out battery Mooch for some honest information.
Can anyone recommend a reputable battery for a gen 9?
Thanks for that post @BlackoutAU. I posted this hoping to generate a dialogue.
I bought 5 “2000MaH” checkered batteries from 5 different ebay sellers. every single one charged less than 800MaH, some less than 600MaH. I received a refund on all of them without question. This leads me to believe they all know they are misleading or outright lying about their battery capacities. I’m going to get a little long winded here and post sections of Ronald Brakels blog on our laws.
Australian Consumer Guarantees
Australians are protected by consumer guarantees that apply to almost everything households buy. There are nine that apply to goods and you can read about them in detail here, but I am going to highlight the following four:
- Goods must be of acceptable quality. This includes being reasonably durable.
- Goods must match provided descriptions. So no lying about products.
- Express warranties must be honored. These include written and verbal warranties.
- Goods must be fit for any disclosed purpose. This means a product has to be able to meet requirements stated by a customer.
Both manufacturers and suppliers are responsible for the first three. The supplier in this case will be the company that sells the solar to the consumer. To keep things simple I’ll call this entity the ‘installer’1. The manufacturer will often be the companies that make the solar panels, inverters, and other hardware used by the installer. But if a manufacturer does not have an office in Australia then the importer of the products will be responsible.
The final consumer guarantee — goods must be fit for any disclosed purpose — is provided by the installer.
If products do not meet consumer guarantees, then the customer is entitled to a remedy. This could be a repair, a replacement, or a refund.
I know it’s about solar panels but this applies to all consumer product.
Know your rights and don’t accept these dodgy practices, GET A REFUND and force vendors to properly inform consumers.
The issue is usually with the second tier suppliers relabelling all the OEMs, there’s a good chance that the retail vendors don’t actually have a clue what they are selling and are just passing on what they are told.
I personally ended up making my own Lipo cells with OEM panasonic batteries, though it’s trickier than it looks.
+1 for making your own. Aldi often has drill batteries on sale. Rip them apart and out comes panasonic or samsung cells. Cheapest way to get some lithium batts.
i have been considering building batteries for some time and have the skills to be able to but its the gamble on cell quality that i’ve not looked into.
can you provide the link to your usual product?
i have need of a couple of batteries
The Panasonic and samsung cells are normally Lion round cells.
The best ones are used in e cigarettes and are high discharge which most lion cells are not.
The round cells are also quite long and 3s will be very long if you plan to use them in a buffer tube.
The 3s packs end up about 200mm so can be used but will limit butt stock length adjustment
The typical lion is an 18650 which is 18 x 65mm and from 2200 to 3000mah
Part of the problem is the dodgy math the suppliers use.
Let’s say you have 1x 3.7v lipo that’s got 1000mah
If you connect 3 of them (ie 3s) in parallel that gives you: 1x 3.7v and 3x 1000mah which is basically a big ass 3.7v 3000mah battery.
If you connect 3 of them (ie 3s) in series that gives you: 3x 3.7v and 1x 1000mah which is a 11. 1v 1000mah battery.
But they usually wrongly multiply both the voltage and the capacity x3 and say it’s a 11.1v 3000mah battery. Which is total bullshit.
To get 11.v 3000mah from a 3.7v 1000 battery, you would need nine batteries. (9s)
3x batteries connected in series to give you 11.1v 1000mah. And then 3 lots of those connected in parallel to give you 11.1v 3000mah 3x3=9 batteries.
3x batteries connected in parallel to give you 3.7v 3000mah. And then 3 lots of those connected in series to give you 11.1v 3000mah 3x3=9 batteries.
The best cells for a buffer tube style 7.4 are:
LG HG2 - 3000mah 20A
Samsung 30Q - 3000mah 15A
Sony VTC6 - 3000mah 15A
Panasonic NCR18650BD - 3000mah 10A
These are the best batteries out there, anything that claims more than a 20A rating at more than 3000mah is lying
I just went down to battery world and got a pair of the Panasonics I listed. You can ask them to spot weld some metal strip connectors to join the batteries together and avoid having to solder the cells directly and potentially blow them up.
You can buy special solder tabs.
I have made two 3s stick packs and they fit in the buffer tube but I can’t use the first to positions on the stock but in use that is fine.
One pack is made from Sony VTC6’s and the other is the ones below, both are very good quality cells and have given good results.
Lol 50A 3500mAh, that’s absolute bullshit, there is zero chance those cells even approach those specs and the lie is blatant enough that I would avoid anything by that brand purely from associated suspicion.
50c is burst rate only
The Sony’s and Panasonic’s have similar burst rates
Pulse amp ratings are meaningless, basically it’s just a number they make up. How is the rating given? Is it 50A and then it blows at 51A? 50A for 3 microseconds? 30A for 7 microseconds?
There is no standard for those ratings, it’s pure marketing bs.
You are correct but I use them and can tell you they are as good or better than the 3 best 18650’s made.
I use them every day in my e cig mods drawing high currents at 60 to 80w