Mosfet T238 v1.2 - it arrived, first impressions

sub-optimal.

so the proof will be in the pudding but that all starts with the assembly and right out of the box…it won’t fit into the MK Tactical V2 box i have.

i initially bought it for the RetroArms box but it draws 18amps and no-one could tell me what the T238 can handle.

on that front, the fets on this thing, N & P are stamped T238…thanks guys…way to be muppets and treat your customer base like numpties…not amused.

build quality…well i have to say that honestly, i expected less.

its a clean lazy spacious design who’s footprint is significantly larger than it needs to be. there are a few conductor runs that are soooo close to the edge in places that you couldn’t remove pcb material to make if you needed to.

solder bath isn’t generous but seems to be adequate to give good joins under the lens

all components are actually oriented well and don’t look like they’ve been thrown at the wall by monkeys from venus.

solder pads for battery etm. leads are so large blind freddy could’nt stuff it up.

interestingly enough that trigger switch someone had a grump about has been replaced by what i expect is some sort of proximity style switch…i wonder how plastic and nylon triggers get on with it…aluminum also since alu is non ferrous…
EDIT: it’s a removable cap which exposes the momentary Microswitch. Small tug with the pliers and…presto, trigger switch

i am disappointed on two core fronts…that the main capacitor is still catalytic (wet) and that it doesn’t fit in the v2 box and i can’t trim it down to fit without needing run wire to deal with needing to cut into the actual circuit.

EDIT: I finally cranked u the dremel and removed the lower half of the letters DESIG to deal with the fit issue…thankfully there is no copper in this area and having done that…fits like a champ (there may be hope for this little cheap fet yet :sunglasses:)

documentation that comes with it is entirely adequate and verbose enough that most technically inept campers could install and configure it.

it’ll take me a couple weeks to bother tearing down a couple of my other boxes to check mechanical fit but i’ll add to this when i do.

Can you add a back and front photo of it please, good for identification purposes. Especially for idiots like me that will pull one out of a drawer in 6 months time and wonder “what was this again?”

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glad i’m not the only one who does that.

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I have drawers full of those ‘what the heck is that’ things… luckily now, before I throw something in the ‘wtf’ drawer… I write on it what it is and where I got it, so it don’t drive me… ceazy

hey…random thought…post pics to a thread…

chances are someone will be able to identify the items :slight_smile:

Old mate had one on the old GB Facebook page, I remember him posting it burnt out first go.
Will be interesting to see how your one goes if you install it.

I think getting a gate warfet mosfet and not wiring in the trigger switch is a great way to go.
That way you can use it on multiple blasters and save cash.

yea, there are a couple lads with different grumps.

there isn’t allot of useful spec information on it either but i did read that its upper limit is an M160 spring which is quite heavy.

I’ll be feeding it an M90 spring on a high torque motor so i’m not expecting to hit that upper sustained current limit - time will tell.

if i do fry it i’ll likely replace the N & P fets on the board itself - assuming i don’t fry the IC in which case i really CBF.

I usually make my own AB fets but with the metal boxes thought i’d get all fancy like…the RA box (18amp) will get something better than the T238 unless it really surprises me (highly unlikely)

I just a Perun from Jeliworks, I’m keen to give this a crack as it’s half the price of the gate titan which is very appealing.

Yea, I was looking at that also.

If you can get me the markings on the FETs…that’d be greeeeaat

Ummmm me no understanding lol

I’m an electrical noob, I only understand basic current flow etc etc.

What is a FET

there will be two little black squares on it that are the same or really similar sizes.

they will have 3 legs, the middle one may be removed and usually have a tag on the other side.

its the markings of those two devices i seek :slight_smile:

Hmm not sure which ones, circle your poison and I’ll try and get the numbers

in between the two black wires.

the perun i thought was an active brake?

Yeah mate it has active break, I can’t really see the numbers as the wire covers half of them.
I’d have to un solder the wire to see the rest.
What I can see is on the FET is

1003???
Could be something in the middle
163???

lol…don’t be doing anything you don’t feel confident doing m8.

i can always get the part detail at some other time

h

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