New to the sport/Recommendations for blasters

Hi All,

I’ve done as much research as I can (information is very scattered it seems), I’m looking for a solid starter blaster option.

My budget is very flexible, ballpark 300-500 AUD.

I’d rather get something reliable that I don’t have to mess with out of the box too much as I have no idea what I’m doing.

I’d also really like any suggestions on sundry I should buy once I get my blaster, so far I have:

  • Extra Battery(s)?
  • Extra magazine(s)?
  • Hop up
  • Eye protection
  • Speed Loader
  • Possible Sidearm (From what i’ve read people do not use their sidearms very often)
  • Extra Gels (Hardened) - Would like a reliable brand recommendation

Happy to take suggestions for other random equipment or things others wish they knew starting out.

Thanks everyone!

  • Prince
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If you have the choice of $500 and willing to spend it. Honestly I’d say to go for something like the xyl arp9. Honey badger. M18 gold pro. Hk416d V3. All great out of the box shoots well and seem reliable (at least the ones I’ve seen). Slr too actually. I’ve always liked them.

As to the sundry you’re pretty much good on your list. I’d just add a vest/belt to put mag pouches and hook all your stuff up to

Sidearm isn’t overly necessary. It’s great in a pinch and fun but not a requirement. I’d probably hold off a few months for a sidearm atm tbh. Lot of interesting stuff coming out in future months. So take your time to browse it all.


Thanks man, I’ve had my eye on the Hk416d V3 in terms of price/quality ratio - especially the metal gears version. If there are cheaper blasters at a more reasonable entry point for a newbie I’m happy to be recommended those (people have mentioned things like the JM ACR 10 and Kriss v2)

If you have recommendations on a decent plate carrier that would be awesome :slight_smile:

I’ll probably leave the sidearm if there are things coming out, of all the videos I’ve watched I have not seen someone whip out their sidearm in an actual engagement, they look fun though!

I only caved recently and bought a sidearm for games. I did use it more than I thought honestly. But right now I think the nest things for sidearms is to wait a bit.

I have an acr. One of the newer ones that use the am mags. And I think their great. But I think you’ll find yourself wanting to upgrade it sooner rather than later. The hk416d is a safe bet. Don’t own one but I’ve used a number of them now in games and they’ve never disappointed me.

For the plate carrier. Try this.

They do have a proper plate carrier but their double the price. I have one of those vests above and their made well. Can take a beating and I think you can organise them a little better with the side molle webbing the carrier doesn’t have.

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Keep reading good things about the XYL ARP9’s out of the box performance and ended up ordering one myself last night for CQB.

Other things you’ll want are good eyepro that don’t fog up (I ordered the Novritsch ones for that)

You’ll want to decide on either chest rig or waist rig, chest allows you to carry more but waist allows you to travel lighter and move quicker. Soft shell mag pouches from eBay are good for waist rigs, speedQB air softers often run those kinds of rigs.

Spare mags, higher capacity batteries, good boots and pants you don’t mind sliding in could help. They sell pants with built in knee pads for that kinda reason.

Speed loader just get one of the sauce bottle style ones. Hopup depends on your blaster but there’s a screw on one for the ARP9 I’ll be testing out.

Gels I’d recommend trying AKA’s as they grow most consistent in size which leads to good accuracy.

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the troops will list current top blaster options but

2x battery + charger + balancer
2x mags (couple them together)
sweetheart or rizer hopup
1 speed loader

EDIT: BACKUP BLASTER - because it absolutely IS NEEDED

battery: it is worth it to buy a decent charger. the b3 is not a decent charger. the outlay on a decent charger will make your batteries last longer so its an upfront cost but in the next 18-24 months, will have paid for itself by not killing batteries. the balancer is used after each game as the used battery comes out of the blaster and similarly helps with longevity.

eye protection: daisy make a top safety glass. bunnings has good options. if i’m cqb i use a ski goggle style solution with lower guard. 300fps to the face point blank makes your eyes water a little.

side arm: i have a couple of pistols but if i’m playing with them, i’m playing with them not as a secondary - don’t bother until you seen a bunch and have more of an idea of your game style

gels: AKA or ultras - this is really dependant on what barrel the blaster you get has

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Great advice. Also new, and need a charger myself, was about to buy the B3 or B6. Any recommendations on a good one?

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i have an old skool b6ac+ and an isdt clone up610

i pretty much only use the 610 these days - it does a good job


Thanks! I feel like there isn’t anywhere in the community to get good information about batteries, I have no idea what any of the numbers and stuff mean, and no idea what to search to start figuring it out. I think this is why I prefer spring powered manual blasters lol

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batteries…are rather simple for the most part but there is a definite need to know about the numbers and such.

first up…LiPO as a battery technology - is fussy about how it is treated

  1. discarge too low
  2. discharge too fast
  3. store charged
  4. physical abuse
  5. voltage differential between cells

all baaaaaad juju

the C rating is the charge rating and refers to amps you can push into the battery safely. for best life expectancy, charge your batteries at 1C. as a safety thing, charge at 1amp / battery on charge - its hard to go wrong (unless you have stock crappy batteries then 800mah)

the C rating also serves as an indicator of what you can suck out of it. 35-50C indicates you can safely pull 35C out of the battery and burst to 50C for a few seconds

now there’s allot of detail and math behind this but in general, a 35-50c rating will be more than suitable for most high end blasters and will easily handle a stock blaster.

as a new consumer you want to be looking at 35c batteries, not discharging below 3.7v per cell and balancing after use.

this will get you going initially whilst you learn all the other bits buit will ensure you don’t set fire to anything in the mean time.


This has helped immensely. I was about to go into a mad Googling spree, but you’ve saved me a lot of time. Thanks good sir!


SLR CQB $255 with 15% at tactical edge
two extra hk416 mags $43 with 15%
rizer metal hop up $26 with 15%
speedloader $9 with 15%
safety glasses, around 20 bucks

get AKA gels, $8.50 per 10k

spend the rest on accessories, more magazines, chest rig (viper special ops chest rig, 80 bucks)




Apologies, could I ask for which charger/balancer to buy specifically? I’m happy to front the cost especially if as you said it will make the batteries last longer, I’ll be doing some research on how these all work :slight_smile:


Thanks man! The boots and kneepads have me stuck, I have an idea of what boots to buy (5.11 ATAC 1.0/2.0) but im not sure about kneepads.

I’ll start looking at hopups once I’ve decided but now I’m leaning towards XYL ARP9/ 416 V3.


I think i’ll just buy that one- from what I’ve seen the belt style rigs are a a bit too “jingly” for my liking, I want something tight to my body.

I’m still a bit stuck on what to buy for kit (I.E. what sort of camo pattern to use etc.) I originally was going to have a black vest and and Australian Multicam BDU Shirt underneath.

Just a general thank you to everyone for your help, there are so many things to think about I didn’t realize! Especially the batteries!

This is the hopup I ordered for mine which I’ll have a video testing it in the next couple weeks

You can also find some spare mags here, not sure if cheaper places to buy but stock seems limited everywhere else I looked

As for pants call into Aussie Disposals for some ex military gear or search for air soft specific clothing online.


there are a number of decent chargers available and selection will have an element of personal preference.

the b6 has 240v in which is useful, accepts 12v but is bulkier than the 610 i use

the 610 on the flip side does not have a 240v in so you absolutely need a PSU to feed it. this works for me because i have a lab psu kicking about.

i switched to the 610 for travelling game days…its much smaller than the b6

really useful features of any lipo chargers (mandatory for me)
flexible end voltage - lowering your end cell voltage to 4.18 from 4.20 almost doubles the life of your battery
balance charging - if you aren’t balance charging, its going to die. or worse
storage and discharge options - because sometimes you can’t be arsed running it down manually after a game


This is all you need to get started on playing games. I play in a t-shirt and shorts.

and the blaster of course. If you’re considering a sidearm…don’t bother, put the cash toward a back up blaster.



Yeah definitely not sure where to start with that or how they even work :sweat_smile:

Any guides on what I need to buy? (I.E. which AC adapter to go into the right charger, what I need to set up a field charger etc.)

what I’m gathering is that I need to discharge these batteries after game, charge and balance them just before/the day before game?

Discharge on field - blaster
Balance after game - balancer
Charge / discharge to storage when you get home - charger

Charge day of or before game.

Field charging…you will need a power source. Not all fields offer 240v, many do.

I moved away from the b6 to the up610 primarily because of that but also because of its size

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Ok unless your prepared to do a lot of upgrades down the track I would steer clear of the metal gear version.

I have the metal gears in mine and I know that in the near future I am probably going to have to put another $100-$150 into it (especially if i want to run an 11 volt safely) & yet my buddy who has the Nylon gear one has the same out of the box performance & can run an 11.1 volt battery safely in his straight up.

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The reason the XYL can’t take a 3S is it smokes the mosfet. However, the mosfet gives it faster response times than not having one. So the choice is really up to you. For cqb where you might be relying on fast reaction times the mosfet version has its advantages. For modding go with the HLF version.

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