New vector v2 motherboard Jf423a green board

Right 4 pin plug mag, left 2 pin trigger
Guy said hes worked wired like this

Anyone know how to wire this and it has a 3 pin instead of a 4 pin.
Jf423a board


on my “v2 of the mainboard (single piece board)” i have noted that the red and the black are both grounded and connected to each other on a secondary tie with a couple of SMRs.

on the “v3 of the mainboard (green one with the cutout)”, ground is likely to be the middle of the three pins - check with a multimeter for continuity to B-

now noting this…white and blue would be your burst and auto modes which you could blind test without risk of damage perse.

on mine, blue and white are in series with a SMR which would make sense if it is a gating signal between burst and full auto.

the images aren’t really enough to give more of an indication but my firing mode line runs down to a SMR SS34. <-- barrier rectifier !! positive (input) side

there are TWO of these SS34 barriers on my board. one is dedicated to the black/red (single shot) with a mOhm resister inline.

the second is dedicated to burst/auto (white/blue) with smaller inline resistors

continuity tests
single shot:
… red <> black connected to the second SS34 with mOhm inline SMR
… blue connects to SS34
… nothing flows from the reb/black into the white/blue contacts.

burst fire:
… black <> white (via smr) connected <> SS34 (via smr)

full auto:
… black <> blue <> SS34

so the mechanism here is to increase the voltage to SS34 (or reduce the inline resistance) as you move from single through to full auto.

what this means for you…

black to the center pin - should check out as having continuity to B-

find your equivalent of my SS34 which i think may be beside your MT+ and another possibly besire MT- lead and get the resistance between SS34’s (||) input and the two outside pins on the 3p plug.

find the one the blue one (full auto) will have no resistance. to one of the outer 3p pins, check that same SS34 end to the other side of the 3p plug and you should have a higher resistance value - 150ohms on my board.

if you are referencing the wrong SS34 you won’t get a reading of 0 Ohms (direct connection) on either pin <-- this will be your single fire SS34, move onto testing with the other one.

once you know which of the outer pins has the resistance and which does not you can connect white and blue to their respective positions and get some testing done.

jeepers…read that a couple times eh but i hope it translates well in your head

as i pinout the 4p switch (3pos) we have


there are risks involved in taking a stab though. you’re probably better off to hassle the fleaBay seller for the information as there’s no warranty if you let the magic smoke out.


show us the back of the board too pls

damn…thats unfortunately too fuzzy for google translate to read the screenprinting

^^^^ see above for an edit of my original post ^^^^

ahh. it is your post



I put my green motherbord in,and only burst fire works not sure if wires are faulty,facing the pins at yourself,trigger is left two prongs,right two prongs is gearbox switch and for the 3 prong,igot told too pull the white wire out of the fire mode and wire the other 3 wires in.


told too pull the white wire out of the fire mode and wire the other 3 wires in.

order is important though eh.

from the images provided it definitely looks as though black is supposed to be in the middle…

can you provide any feedback on the testing advice above?

can you append the model of the board to the forum topic like i did with the v2 red board too :). it’ll help others find what they need.

How are you going with this?

So got my green board yesterday and installed it the way shown in the images up top.
Removed the white wire, put blue wire in its place and cut the connecter down to a 3 pin. But now I have fully auto at the top, and semi auto at the bottom but no burst mode.
Have I wired this correctly? And has anyone wired it this way and have all the firing modes working correctly?
Need some definitive instructions for this board!

My green board has crapped it self after using 4 times,i had 2 modes working,that dude off the pics said hes worked fine,wired like that, im just gonna get a mosfet all the boards ive got off suppliers are pretty crap

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ditto on replacement board fet quality.

further above i have a maybe howto figure out which pin is which mode if you are technically keen.

i saw another single board 3p today which had an entirely different layout. <-- is yours the model in the topic title?

Im gonna give it one more crack, and buy a 8 pin switch, and a new green board,my last try, otherwise after that ill go mosfet

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I had a re crack it works well,the way it says up top all modes​:slightly_smiling_face::slightly_smiling_face::slightly_smiling_face::slightly_smiling_face:

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Hey Lukeyboy_Senior so you running the green board and having no dramas? I’m considering switching to a easyfet V2. What internals are you running?

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Kit from gel ball mod ,with a solid stainless tube no holes from australia blasters, dont recommend tubes with holes they chew rubbers,the springs 1.3 i got ,the green board im using and testing for stress ill let everyone no as i use it for a few weeks

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Awesome. Keep us all posted!

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I just blew my new green board!

I’m thinking the original board handles the best with those bigger mosfets. I’m no electronics expert but I would have thought bigger Mosfet is better. They could be shrinking the whole thing to take up less space in the blaster.
So will be ordering the easyFET tonight!

It would be great if you could connect the vector motherboard signal that triggers the mosfets. to the trigger input on the easyFET and maintain the fire modes. Bypassing the vector mosfets if that makes sense?

I got the gelballmod kit with the 11v motor, metal gears and plunger. Kept the original cylinder as the silver one had a slightly larger ID and didn’t seal as well.

Yep mines the same as the board up top.

M4a1 blasters sell the green motherboard with the switch and 3 pin adaptor fitted 20 dollars