So I have just finished my 2nd level of mods in my gen 8 m4a1. At the first level it was only achieving 200 fps. All that it had was an alloy barrel. Now I have put in a green o ring, metal gears, brass cylinder head, metal ladder/ plunger. With the stock spring it is average 200 fps and with a 1.3 spring it’s averaging around 235 fps. I have a 1.5 unequal spring but the motor won’t pull it and I’m 2 lazy to solder my new motor right now. Also it’s a nylon box in case you were wondering.
i usually expect to see a minimum of 260-280 for a 1.3
curious to hear how the box goes with the 1.5 and what sort of range / accuracy you get.
Yea that’s a tomorrow job. I’m going to buy wiring because I’m slack lol. The gen 9 hits 185 average with 1.3 in it (everything else is stock except the oring and spring) Might just have to upgrade it instead. Maybe the other box is just shit
You can get reasonable results from any box if you build it well.
A quick rebuild on my sister’s he has it at 280 with a tight grouping
Any spring over 1.3mm in a Gen8/9 is a waste of time and simply a cause of stress in my opinion. I liken putting a huge spring in a blaster gearbox, to fitting a giant supercharger onto a stoc engine in a car… sure it has this huge supercharger, but the rest of the standard motor cant take it…
Blaster upgrades need to be done in order to have a chance of working… and the blaster has to be treated as two sections… the air section being the spring/plunger/piston/seals/cylinder head/T piece and barrel working in harmony with no air leaks (and gels fitting the barrel properly)… this is responsible for FPS and the repeatable inaccuracy.
The mechanical section is responsible for the reliability of running the air section without breaking stuff like the cases and stripping gears and an easy way of upping the rate of fire being using an 11.1v battery (the hard way being using lower ratio gears and a 7.4v battery)
After countless hours I have finally given up. If there is an air leak I cannot locate it. 250 fps was my average after numerous rebuilds (all mods were in place) Sure it’s better than the 200 it was getting however. I’ve stretched out the o ring plenty and checked for any leak. No idea. Perhaps I’ll just put all the parts in the gen 9 and get a long axis motor replacement. I will just need to learn how to shave down the drum and trader mags I guess
Random thought .
What’s the ID of your barrel?
I’m not sure, just a random alloy barrel 7.5mm inner
bro dump that stock motor get a high torque. also what metal gear are rhey and are they shimmed correctly. and is the trigger switch stock or 10amo
Which spring is that? 1.5mm?
Folks will call ‘hit’ if they see you point it at them
WHAT! Would not like to b on the receiving end of that monster
Yeah I put the 1.5 spring in it. Accuracy is average but not terrible . I haven’t done the shoot me test yet
well if you plan on taking it out on the field then you gotta shoot yourself first it’s only fair. personally my rule has always been if I can’t shoot myself then it’s unfair to unleash it on others. lol
i shoot myself in the foot for a feed test…
some players have figured this out and then tell me i’m not feeding which results in…
me shooting myself in the foot
lol damn there goes my plan exposed for wen I come up next time to the fields lmfao
i learn allot from tv
pointy end goes in other man
That really high reading is because you have touched your muzzle on the tunnel wall, it throws everything out.
Other than that really good numbers but I can guarantee that thing will be useless on the field and most balls disintegrating and flat out hitting a target 20 m away.
The same thing happened to me with a 1.4 spring.
BTW I stick my finger in front of the barrel to make sure it is firing. I always come home with a black and bruised finger. Those damn see through milkies.
Well, the ultimate test occurred on Wednesday. Took it 2 a game. 5 minutes in it jammed. After it was taken apart, it fused my plunger into the box. Fun experiment. Do not recommend