Real/Fake motor store?

Hey everyone, with the prevalence of fake motors out there, would this be the real store for motors?
https://chihaimotor.aliexpress.com/store/3096049?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.4f503c00LxX2O0

If it is under about $40 it will be fake… or a generic copy… could be ok…

It could be $125 and still be a fake… it would be good to be able to see if they are real or fake… like, if real has bearings and fake have bushes… or something simple like that?

The cheap ones may actually be real ones that didn’t come up to scratch on the testing line at the factory? I guess there is no way to know for sure.

However, I would rather buy 4 cheap knock offs than one $100 motor… and change them out if/when they fail…

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Okay those are good points. What problems could occur if the motor fails? Just the motor stops running? Or something worse.

I do like the idea of using a inline fuse on the main battery line, which I think you have mentioned before, I know how lipo’s can go if shorted.

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I have found that brushed motors either flog out the bearing/bush closest to the pinion or they over heat and the brush springs lose their springiness and stop pushing the brush against the commutator… so, it just stops.

If you put too big a spring on the llunger, a weaker motor can struggle to cycle the spring… meaning the motor and wiring gets hotter and hotter. If the motor can’t push the plunger back… the motor essentially becomes a short so smoke will likely happen.

You have to make sure the wiring is able to carry more current than the fuse… no good putting a 30A fuse in wiring that can only handle 10 amps. Same as no use putting better wiring and a 20Amp fuse (which the wiring can handle) only to find the motor cant handle the current and fries before the fuse

Heat is the enemy of our blaster motors… they are in a tight handle with no ventilation/airflow… your hand is the perfect insulator to stop heat escaping… I am surprised no body has burned their hand on a motor melting the hand grip. I think the factory wires in Gen 8, 9 and J10 are so small, and the terminals connectors on the motor so flimsy (they often fall off)… I am surprised not many blasters go up in smoke…

Has anyone had one melt, smoke or catch fire? noidea

i have a new chiahi which is not geniune…nasty build

i’ve had a few other people give me old chiahi that were baked in one way or another…the brushes seem to be a common fail point for them

but once you put them across a multimeter - they all seem to be complete garbage.

shs at a minimum for me or the stock wells motor…can’t fault those so far

Run in the motors before you use them.
Connect them up to a 5 volt power supply so they are spinning but not very fast, you could even go down to 2v or 3v, you just want it ticking over.
Dunk it in a glass of water with some dish soap in it and leave it for a 3-5 minutes.
take it out and dry it off with compressed air and give the bearings a bit of thin oil like WD40 but don’t spray the oil anywhere else.
conditions the brushes and will out live the blaster.
We used to do this at the model plane club when electric planes first came out.
This method would outlast a non conditioned motor by 4-5 times.

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Distilled water helps… pure. You can run the motor in the clean pure water… you should see the gunk that comes out as the brushes seat in… it is called water break in.

Some people swear by it, others dont like the idea… If you use tap water with minerals in it, or rain water with polution and acids in it (or salt water) it can ruin the motor obviously. Demineralised water can be bought from car parts places… if the water gets dirty after a few minutes, replace the water… run it and replace water until the fresh water is not getting dirty any more (much at least)

The dirt in the water is the bits of brush that would have remained in the motor and possibly eventually created a short. If you happened to drop your blaster in a puddle of muddy water, can flush the motor this way too… but as Matt said… dry with compressed air or run out of the water until dry… then a little oil on the shaft.

Then, run the machine… don’t do a water break in, then put the thing away for a month… then try to use it… give it a good run the day you do it… so it is completely dry. There is a few videos on it if you search for ‘rc brushed water break in’

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Thanks Gents, I would have never thought of a water break in. I have plenty of demin water, its what I use to hydrate my gels.