Single shot problems

Hi guys, just upgraded o ring, spring and battery on my J10 and now single shot fails to shoot properly. Full auto is awesome but single shot is really slow and gel balls are lucky to travel a couple of meters. Any ideas?

I’m surprised no one has said anything yet but I’d really like to know what caused this for you too (noticed semi-auto fire generally gives a lower fps for me as well but only by a VERY small amount)

Out of curiosity, if you set it to full auto but only press the trigger for 1 round’s worth, does it perform badly or does it still function as well as holding the trigger down for multiple rounds?

Edit: By the way, what size spring did you use?

When I used a killer huge spring for kicks, I noticed semi-auto jammed because the sector gear tripped the trigger cutoff at a bad time leaving the spring compressed and the blaster unusable since the motor then didn’t seem to have enough power/momentum to handle things when pulling the trigger again unless I used a better battery (not all 11.1v batteries are equal in the eyes of the gel gods)
Note: I did have an upgraded motor too though…

Similar situation could be found when using 7.4v with 1.3 spring (gets stuck and you have to work it a few more times before it finally fires… which is really bad for the motor and battery by the way)

Another after thought, might be worth pulling it apart and putting it back together again after a quick check up for anything out of place…

Idk how many times early on I’d be scratching my head in confusion only to find the problem(s) went away after pulling the gearbox apart and putting everything back together after I didn’t find anything “wrong” with it :stuck_out_tongue:

I used a 1.3 spring. I am thinking something is out of place but my dilemma is that I can’t find a detailed close up picture of where everything is supposed to go. I believe the anti reverse is not working on it. I stripped it down last night and reassembled it and it worked fine on semi for a few rounds then started to fail again. I’m unsure as to where the tappet plate sits also. Does it rest against the pin or the hub of the gear? I will strip mine again shortly and take photos so I’m hoping you guys can see something obvious.

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Sounds like a plan!

Hopefully this will help out some (the tip of the tail/fin of the tappet plate usually rests against the axle of the sector gear with the pin resting to the right of said tail/fin, ready to engage when necessary)


Anyone got a good real life pic of these two areas. Also pic of the anti reverse latch with the top gear removed. Mine all fell apart the first time I pulled it apart and has been guess work putting it back together


I’m the way home now, I got a spare gearbox I’ll try show for you if no one else does by then :wink:
About 5 mins away from home…

Cheers, I appreciate it

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Alright, shopping all put away… Here we go:

So, the anti-reverse majiggy should rest like this:

Can be hard to hold in place while putting the gearbox back together sometimes as it likes to pop out on its own due to the spring tension against the somewhat loose gear…

The spring on the reverser should be put on like this (spring slides on from the bottom [yellow] and the bent part [red] goes over the arm to push the arm against the gear):

Just realised I don’t have a spare tappet plate so I’ll have to open up an actual blaster to show that otherwise here is an airsoft one (pretty much the same, sector gear pin pulls it back until it clears the tail/fin which let’s the spring pull it back to the starting position)

First pic unsure of exact location for anti reverse
Second pic the tappet doesn’t make contact with the secondary lobe on the gear

hey rob :slight_smile:

your ground wire looks to be damaged? or is that some grease and a trick of light? if it is, recommend some heat shrink for that.

the tappet plate contact, my wells is a bit like that so it was hit with a heat gun and bent in a bit laterally to ensure contact.

not so much that it would wear on the gear itself though

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The reverse thingy looks good, just have to twist it so that it is behind/under the gear that is driven by the motor (I usually do this last before putting the gearbox back together since it doesn’t tend to stay there unless you hold it down)

For the tappet plate, try screwing the gearbox case together and cycle the gears (without spring) to see if the nozzle is pulled back from the outside (there is a channel in the casing that holds the tappet plate down so the sector gear pin can make contact)

If it is so badly out of place that the case doesn’t hold it down enough, might have to give zeHamish’s option a go (check the tappet plate isn’t bent, should be pretty straight when under no pressure)

Edit: And yeah, that black wire to the right in the first pic is nearly cut in half? Probably from trying to push the motor in while it was in the way (need to check that out, I hot glued mine down cause it was also getting in the way sometimes)

Ok anti reverse wasn’t pushed around enough so thanks heaps for that .
The tappet plate is straight but looks eaten away

Eek, definitely not being held down enough by the casing or maybe the tappet plate is/was too thin at the tail…

I’d buy another tappet plate at that stage since it’s so badly scraped up but you might be able to work something out manually…

These channels in the case are meant to hold it in place so it doesn’t flex out of the way when pressure is placed on the tail/fin but, if it’s too thin, it may have been pushed up enough for the pin to scrape off the side until it is now too far gone to salvage…

You could try to bend it so that it is closer to the sector gear (but not grinding against the face of the gear) like zeHamish said if you’re game…
I have run out of recommendations :stuck_out_tongue:

I just bought a new tappet plate, wiring harness, stainless barrel and barrel supports at the shop just now. Do I glue the new t piece with araldite to the plain end of the barrel or the end with the groove in it?

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It’s exciting when buying new stuff :stuck_out_tongue:

There’s a groove in the barrel?
If you’re referring to the t-piece grooves (bits sticking out at the top/bottom?), yes!

Barrel goes in the end with the black rubbery plasticy bit (push it in as far as you can too, it should stop when it hits the back end of the black plastic/rubber bit)

This groove. Barrel seems to be a sloppy fit too which is probably why they say to glue it in?

Huh, never seen that before (probably normal and I’m just not exposed to these things enough)

I’d assume it goes in there with a little more glue to help hold it in better?
Any veterans here know for sure?

The barrel shouldn’t be incredibly loose in there but yeah, it’s usually loose enough to basically fall off with gravity’s assistance until glued…

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Maybe it needs an O ring???


Genius!! (makes much more sense)