I’m thinking about option to make/mod/buy a super short butt stock (possibly with a vertical buffer tube–or other kind of battery container) for my JM M4. Mostly so it short enough for my 7yo to use more comfortably, but also as possible CQB blaster (likely also try a shorter barrel and ~4" hand guard/fishbone if I can make/buy one for the right price).
Has any seen/made/bought something like this?
You could just cut down the stock tube and fit a buffer foot like this. Have also seen cheaper ones too.
Thanks @blek… but I’ll thinking VERY short (like less than half the length of the standard butt stock)… hence thinking some kind of vertical (or almost vertical) arrangement.
You can remove it all together if you want it real short but you will need to relocate the battery as it normally goes in the buffer tube. You can get battery boxes or just tape it on top.
Well, failing to find anything better… here is my cobbled together prototype. Three cheers for 3D printer, random bit of PVC pipe and hot glue ■■■■.
Should fit pretty much any battery I can find, and be able to stick my new voltage alarms in as well. Looks a bit ghetto at the moment, and I still need to design/create a top-cap for the battery compartment, but it may not look to terrible once it has some paint.
This is on my gen9. I can close the buffer tube cap with a battery in it but it’s about 14.5cm long when set to short.
Thanks @Sprocketj… good to know. My stock Gen 8 butt is 21cm all the way in… and ghetto-stock (above in 13cm). I could easily knock another 2.5cm off of that with a smaller (but still big enough for a BIG battery) battery compartment.
However, initial testing by my 7yo seems to indicate that the currently length fits him okay, so we’ll see how it goes
And here’s the painted up ghetto stock… still need to make a top cap for the battery section (having some 3d printer issues)… but I think it actually looks okay.
Whats wrong with your printer Byrd?
What printer you got?
Got a Monoprice Mini Select (Wanhao i3 mini) (and having crazy-making issues with bed height changing on me—not a loose z-switch, checked that). Printed a perfect bottom plate for the ghetto stock, and on the next print it was gouging the bed.
Have switched to my new (to me) modded Cocoon Create (Wanhao Select Plus) now, but still haven’t got the bed adjusted (too low at the moment I think… tried just adjusting z-offset in Slic3r… but no luck yet).
The joys of printing PETG—awesome when you have the printer dialed in… otherwise, crazy-making.
PETG… well, there’s your problem
Does the Z axis go upward on yours? I had the screw drive a bit crooked in one of my ender 3 pro’s and the Z axis wasnt climbing… so the hot end was just going through the layers like a motor cross bike on steroids… I lined up the drive screw better and it is back to usual
If I don’t have any luck with the new one (it should be better), I’ll take a close look at the z axis screw. Thanks!
PETG needs an enclosure to keep it really hot… and if there are drafts or even people walking past it … the temperature change can stuff a print.
I have heard of people putting a trash can with a window cut into it … upside down over the printer to make an enclosure… or you can get those zip up ones
Sometimes you have to have the part fan at 50% (or off) to keep it hot.
Nah… ABS needs an enclosure, PETG is fine without. Until my recent woes I’ve been printing PETG exclusively on the mini for over 3 years without any issues. I suspect the recent issues arise from moving it down to Brissie from Emerald (been down a year, but haven’t printed much, and its been twitchy).
Just really need to get the bed well calibrated, and get a good first layer down.
Be a man… get some wipper snipper line
Well… the new printer does higher bed and extruder temps (its been upgraded to a direct head, so no more Bowden tube)… so I might give nylon a try at some point (when I’m feeling masochistic)