Having walked into Aussie Hobbies to buy a particular lube that I like, I can tell you that they’re a nice Ma & Pa business. Friendly people, but the shop looks to be mostly RC with lots of half empty shelves. Still, very legit and I have no doubt that you’ll receive yours goods
16:1 with a 35,000 or 36,000 rpm motor, lighten the plunger and head, a good sealed alloy nozzle, 7.3 id barrel seems to be the go too! Your m100 spring should be good for at least 300 fps if it’s all sealed up well. That thing would hurt and be reliable if done right. Parts are getting harder and harder to source and never can get everything you want from the same shop. And unless your @Rattler parts from China take forever to ship. ( unless you pay extra too). But anyway start planning it out and start the great parts search.
Oh and if it’s gonna be short barrel for cqb your ported cylinder should be fine too.
Thanks for the reply’s. I’ve been thinking about the metal box from M4a1 they have a grey coloured one for $150. I think I’ll just keep the nylon until it breaks.
Managed to pick up an alloy head and nozzle from M4a1 and also a 7.3id barrel (cut to 240mm to give me VE of 1.73:1 and try to ease the load on the front of the box). Do you think it’s worth keeping the original cylinder. Or buy a new 60% stainless? I’m going to run 14th SHS piston with FB POM head.
With the M100 spring and high speed motor and 16:1 (can anyone recommend the right motor) will the stock silver wiring and switch handle the amps?
I’ve been told if I want a high ROF I need to stay with a soft spring. As there will be too much force on the gearbox and load on the wiring? (I’m aiming for 290FPS with 30+ RPS) any truth to that?
The M100 spring is about 1.4mm or a bit bigger isn’t it? I would think 1.2 - 1.3mm would be better for reliability and to ease stress on the gearbox. For 290fps, I would expect no more than 1.2mm which, I believe, equates to about M80 or so.
You have to remember, the 1.2mm only points out the thickness of the wire, the M number is nothing to do with the thickness as such, more with the amount of power/joules the spring can produce.
For example, a spring with 1.2mm wire can be stretched (carefully and purposely) and manipulated to give higher or lower resting ‘foot’ pressure… and have more or less coils, some closer and or some further apart to give different charactoristics to how the spring delivers its joules in action… like an equal spring vs an unequal spring.
In some of Low Guido’s vids on springs, he lays a bunch of springs side by side, from various blasters as well as some of the same models… none are the same length.
I would suggest getting a bunch of springs around 1.2mm and manipulating them by stretching and maybe taking coils off each end for overall length to try and get the spring to do what you want it to, to suit the ROF you are chasing… which is to get it not to bounce back when closing and not to arrive too late (not closing properly)
Thanks mate. If just ordered the parts for my build. So I’ll see how I go. Do you know anything about the silver wiring in the wells boxes? Ie. what amps they can handle? (For lack of better words. I’m a carpenter so I dont know the proper terminology ) just don’t want to melt the wiring.
I ordered from CHGBBS ended up going 13:1 gears, 32000rpm 480 motor, set of 4 stainless cylinders. 7.3 mirror barrel. Sweetheart hop ups, 14th piston. Hopefully get the parts sooner rather than later. I’m keen to see what I can make this thing do.
With stock gearbox and 11v battery 240mm barrel, M95 spring getting 280ish at 22rpm. Fairly good accuracy at 10-15m with AT milkies. I have built a ball sorter though and find the 7.2ish balls work best.