Hi all,
I have a Well CQB. I am after some tips for upgrading. I am not too concerned about accuracy as this will be used for CQB. I want to get a high rate of fire and good consistent FPS.
Metal gears 13:1 with high torque motor or 18:1 with high speed motor?
Full cylinder or keep the original ported cylinder? (65% I think…) 40mm to port, 170mm barrel
Recommended piston, cylinder head and Nozzle and where to buy? (I don’t mind buying online and waiting for parts)
Thanks.
just going to an 11.1v battery will increase the rate of fire
I’m running 11v Turnigy with M100 spring… I have a funny feeling she ain’t gunna last too long. 
Looking for 30rps+
There’s a link by Kamchop that has alloy head and nozzle in stock.
https://www.aussiehobbies.com.au/m401-cylinder-head-and-nozzle.ir
there you may get lost in that thread 
i bought some online saturday from there, have not got any email yet confirming order. Be like big boss tactical that took a week to email what i ordered was not in stock lol.
Yea I prefer the stores that have live inventory system. Pisser to wait that long.
Having walked into Aussie Hobbies to buy a particular lube that I like, I can tell you that they’re a nice Ma & Pa business. Friendly people, but the shop looks to be mostly RC with lots of half empty shelves. Still, very legit and I have no doubt that you’ll receive yours goods
Hey Goku,
16:1 with a 35,000 or 36,000 rpm motor, lighten the plunger and head, a good sealed alloy nozzle, 7.3 id barrel seems to be the go too! Your m100 spring should be good for at least 300 fps if it’s all sealed up well. That thing would hurt and be reliable if done right. Parts are getting harder and harder to source and never can get everything you want from the same shop. And unless your @Rattler parts from China take forever to ship. ( unless you pay extra too). But anyway start planning it out and start the great parts search.
Oh and if it’s gonna be short barrel for cqb your ported cylinder should be fine too.
I am having the same problem with Big boss, it’s been a week and haven’t heard a thing from them, you can add RPM to that too they won’t answer the phone or emails 
had similar issues, not a week long, but too far between responses and then took a few days to actually dispatch an item in stock.
Hi Guys,
Thanks for the reply’s. I’ve been thinking about the metal box from M4a1 they have a grey coloured one for $150. I think I’ll just keep the nylon until it breaks. 
Managed to pick up an alloy head and nozzle from M4a1 and also a 7.3id barrel (cut to 240mm to give me VE of 1.73:1 and try to ease the load on the front of the box). Do you think it’s worth keeping the original cylinder. Or buy a new 60% stainless? I’m going to run 14th SHS piston with FB POM head.
With the M100 spring and high speed motor and 16:1 (can anyone recommend the right motor) will the stock silver wiring and switch handle the amps?
I’ve been told if I want a high ROF I need to stay with a soft spring. As there will be too much force on the gearbox and load on the wiring? (I’m aiming for 290FPS with 30+ RPS) any truth to that?
Any feedback is appreciated.
Thanks.
The M100 spring is about 1.4mm or a bit bigger isn’t it? I would think 1.2 - 1.3mm would be better for reliability and to ease stress on the gearbox. For 290fps, I would expect no more than 1.2mm which, I believe, equates to about M80 or so.
You have to remember, the 1.2mm only points out the thickness of the wire, the M number is nothing to do with the thickness as such, more with the amount of power/joules the spring can produce.
For example, a spring with 1.2mm wire can be stretched (carefully and purposely) and manipulated to give higher or lower resting ‘foot’ pressure… and have more or less coils, some closer and or some further apart to give different charactoristics to how the spring delivers its joules in action… like an equal spring vs an unequal spring.
In some of Low Guido’s vids on springs, he lays a bunch of springs side by side, from various blasters as well as some of the same models… none are the same length.
I would suggest getting a bunch of springs around 1.2mm and manipulating them by stretching and maybe taking coils off each end for overall length to try and get the spring to do what you want it to, to suit the ROF you are chasing… which is to get it not to bounce back when closing and not to arrive too late (not closing properly)
Thanks mate. If just ordered the parts for my build. So I’ll see how I go. Do you know anything about the silver wiring in the wells boxes? Ie. what amps they can handle? (For lack of better words. I’m a carpenter so I dont know the proper terminology ) just don’t want to melt the wiring.
wells cylinder heads got delivered today.
I ordered from CHGBBS ended up going 13:1 gears, 32000rpm 480 motor, set of 4 stainless cylinders. 7.3 mirror barrel. Sweetheart hop ups, 14th piston. Hopefully get the parts sooner rather than later. I’m keen to see what I can make this thing do.
With stock gearbox and 11v battery 240mm barrel, M95 spring getting 280ish at 22rpm. Fairly good accuracy at 10-15m with AT milkies. I have built a ball sorter though and find the 7.2ish balls work best.
I’ll update the build progress when part arrive
Good for about 20A. I’m a hammer spanners guy so don’t quote me on that
The wiring is above average in the wells, you’ll be fine.
I’m going 16:1 on the CQB when I get some time. And parts get here 
What piston head you running?
I’ve currently got an alloy 8 hole and a FB POM ready to go but not sure which one to use yet.
I’ve been told the lighter the better in the piston by some of the gurus here. Especially when you going for what you are after.
@Rattler and many others may chime in especially if you going such fast gears there is a few things you need to do or may know already.
