Hi guys just upgraded my spring, cylinder, cylinder head and piston had to grind down a couple teeth on the piston and cut the part of the cylinder head the nozzle goes on a little shorter and also had to file the tappet a little as it was hitting the cylinder head and not going back far enough to pick up the gel balls but even after all that the nozzle is still not going back far enough to pickup the gel balls just wondering if anyone has had a similar issue and knows whether I need to grind the cylinder head a little bit or the cylinder or whatever needs to be done to fix it TIA
Is your new nozzle the same length as the old one?
I’m still using the original nozzle and the tappet is hitting on the cylinder and cylinder head but it’s hitting on the flat part not the parts I filed down
Can we get some pics?
I’m having trouble picturing your new head vs orig head
That’s with the tappet all the way back as far as it goes and you can see it’s still not clearing the t piece
Looks far enough back to allow gels to feed.
Does your tappet move freely?
It’s an interesting pickle.
Did you swap out the gearset to increase ROF?
I thought the same thing it should be far enough back but it’s not working the tappet appears to be moving normally same as it used to but it doesn’t seem to be going back quite as far and I haven’t changed anything except what’s listed not even the battery I’m not really worried about a faster ROF I’m just trying to up the FPS a bit
My Wells compression gear is stock.
I’ll take a good look at it tomorrow for you.
Low quido just did a video on this, use ur original tappet plate and see if thats works.
He said the upgrade one is for airsoft and only moves back about 7mm and the one made for gelblasters moves back about 10mm
Yeah I am using the original tappet I’ve just pulled it apart and I’m thinking I’ve been sold the completely wrong cylinder head the original next to the upgrade
morning fuzzy fruitbats and coffee hounds…
so @Will_Lowry, i checked my wells with the stock cylinder and head and it definitely pulls the nozzle back enough to clear the t piece. the very top of the silicon seal is the only thing that doesn’t 100% clear the t but it isn’t impinging on its air space either.
i went to get a cylinder and head the other day and the resultant conversation said…absolutely must be wells or don’t bother. i was feeling lazy so bought a whole new build instead.
as i look at your picks, the height of your head is definitely different. that isn’t so much of a problem perse but for a couple of things.
- the positional holes absolutely must be the same height away from the cylinder
- the head itself should rest in and completely fill the recess that the original one came out of
- the first is to ensure your compression mechanism retains the same dimensions and travel
- the second is to ensure that the whole cylinder / head assembly has somewhere to transfer the kinetic energy of the plunger without relying on those 2 little acrylic positional lugs.
all that aside what i am also seeing is that your new kit is in general shorter which still leaves us with tappet travel / size.
for sNg, if you manually move your tappet and mark out its start and end positions (pita i know) what is its overall travel?
Not sure what the tappet travel is but it’s definitely not quite enough what frustrates me about the cylinder head though is that I took my blaster in with me and was told that these were the right parts for it not going to name the store as besides that small mistake they were very helpful but I’ve decided I’m just going to get a cylinder head and nozzle that is on the website as being for the wells and just grind down the cylinder slightly as that’s also a little bit too long will update when I’ve done that cheers for the help mate
tappet travel - there is a small nylon V shape bit that sticks down into the mag
press that back, measure how far the nozzle moves
Unfortunately the tappet can’t travel back any further due to it hitting the cylinder and cylinder head
Zehamish I know what tappet travel is I just worded that badly I just meant I don’t know the distance of the tappet travel lol
That’s where a ruler comes in handy
Yeah that’d mean I’d have to put it back together and I can’t be bothered till I get the right cylinder head lol
You could also measure the travel using only the spring and the drive gear in the half shell
Ok so I got the right cylinder head and nozzle now but it’s still not shooting properly it only shoots every other shot basically so not sure what’s going on but the tappet is definitely travelling far enough back now as it clears the t-piece
Are you running the stock gears?
Which battery do you use?