What is the order in which I should upgrade this thing?

So I just got a hk416 today and am really impressed with how it feels, however there are a couple of problems. Firstly the select fire now just works as full auto or safe, and there is no magprime. How do I go about fixing these problems?
Secondly, what is the order in which I should upgrade the internals to get the best performance. I’m gonna slowly upgrade it over a month or so and would like to invest in the most worthwhile upgrades first. I’ve already ordered a 1.3 unequal spring and have some o rings on the way.
Cheers fellas

What parts does it come with? What is metal, nylon or plastic in the one you bought? I have seen some ads for HK416 that are pretty standard… and others with lots of upgrades already. What did you get?

I think it is best to start with the ‘air’ section first… spring, metal spring guide, plunger, seal… no leaks at head, nozzle to T piece, T piece to barrel… alloy barrel. Getting the air section sorted will make it as powerful and as accurate as can be expected… and should be reliable.

Once that is taken care of, you can go for metal gears, bearings and 11.1v … which will make the reliable air section cycle faster and should still be reliable… :+1:

The most important part to replace is the inner barrel, with a 7.5mm one. The stock barrel is crap with too much inaccuracy.
I would not suggest a 1.3 spring in these blasters, unless you upgrade the gearbox shell too, as the standard gearbox in these are not overly strong.

It’s the alloy barrel, nylon gear version. I haven’t measured the diameter of the inner barrel but I think it might be a 7.8mm.

The original inner barrel is 7.7mm, which is too big for most gels. Main reason for the crap accuracy of the blaster, so is the first thing to change.

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I would slowly buy all parts required to do the upgrades in one hit as budget allows over the month.
You got a pretty good blaster there so wack on a hopup and go play.
Enjoy the blaster in its stock form for the month or two.
When you have all parts on your table, rip it open and give it the full treatment.

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Just purchased a LDT HK416 V2 myself yesterday and today I’m facing the same fire rate issue as yourself. Have you found a solution to the problem yet? Mine was “hanging” in full auto for a couple of shots when switching from auto to semi for the first few mags but now is just stuck in full auto

I would treat the blaster as 2 sections and do the air section and new barrel between 7.3 and 7.5mm id first… can do all but the seal without even splitting the gearbox…

The trouble with using it stock, but paying for the upgrades over time until you have a big pile of upgrade parts and still playing with the stock blaster until you have every single part to do an entire upgrade… is that you never feel or chrono a difference over stock until the end…

A good example is whether or not a metal tappet plate is a step backwards or forwards… some people swear by them, some dislike them

Most of us reading this thread will reccommend you buy all of the upgrade parts… plus another upper and lower… and build a second one… all while having your stock one, maybe with a spring and seal… always ready to rip…:+1: (Can anyone survive with just ONE blaster??):thinking:

Semi auto takes too long to empty the mag I reckon…:rofl:

Enjoy your new ■■■ @Concept, don’t listen to some of the knockers. Of all the standard ■■■■, yours would have to be best out of the box.
The Gen9 seems to lose it’s select fire mode when you up grade, but who cares, when you hear that rapid ROF who would ever use that function.

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Stuck trigger switch, yep had this happen to my 416 too !
You will have to pull apart the gearbox I’m afraid, if you dont return the blaster for another one.
The damn trigger switch return spring will be installed the wrong way, and getting jammed.
Also, the gearbox needs more lubrication put in it. The only real fault I have had mind you.

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I disagree, the gearbox in the HK416 uses the warinterest gear box which is the top of the game of all nylon gearboxes out their. It has so much extra meat around the gears than the gen 9. Only problem is finding upgrade components to fit the box. Gen9 gear don’t fit, like tappet plate and spring retainer.

I’m thinking Wells gear should fit.

The cylinder head and nozzle are fun to get a hold of, got something coming from gelballmod that’ll hopefully do the trick. Mines pretty stock still, did upgrade the barrel to 7.0 tightbore, but the accuracy was pretty good before that already. At 28m I had 90% (approximately, I wasn’t counting that precisely) of shots within 0.5m horizontally of target, without a hop up either.

So as has been said earlier, work on the air first - barrel, o ring. Then I’d say go the spring and maybe gears.

And another thing that caused me a bit of grief, check the t piece for slight plastic burrs where the mag tube intersects with the nozzle chamber. That caused me a ridiculous level of feed issues until I filed it off


I went and visited a friend today, he has just got a new HK 416… it seems pretty good right out of the box… he is just doing a spring and seal for now… it even goes well on 2S.

What is even nicer, is he gave me his old Gen 8 :grin: Another one to hot up… DoH!!

I’m looking to get a barrel and t piece, but I can’t find any that are specifically for the hk. They’re all either gen 8,9 or 10. Is there any compatability between them?

Hey there @Concept! Which gear variant did you get? Metal or nylon? I’ve the metal gear and I’ve put the fighting bro 7mm tighbore barrel @~500mm long (did some trimming to suit to extend to the end of my suppressor) and it works perfectly. Again like most things gelblaster-wise, some things seem to work for some people and not others - tried 2 different mounting hopups and neither make any consistently good difference. As @Captainkrug said above, with the hk416d being so new, finding parts is a lot harder than say gen8/9, so I’m currently trying to mod a nozzle containing an oring as the stock nozzle doesnt have an oring. Other things I’ve done are 1.3 spring, 100% barrel, metal rack piston and new piston head. Also managed to mod a std drum mag to suit ‐ cos reloading sux! :crazy_face:.

Edit: I believe all barrels are cross compatible, but the tpiece are gen-specific (unless you mod the hell out of it and a swag of other pieces to suit)

M4a1 have been the only place I’ve checked and found t pieces at, link supplied below. As for the barrel, anything for sale at the shops will work, but you likely won’t notice much of a difference over the stock supplied alloy barrel until you start tightening the bore. Fighting bro barrels are pretty popular and can be obtained in 7.0 or 7.5mm internal bores, other brand barrels exist at 7.2 and 7.3 mm.

As for length, if you have a pipe cutter and a deburring tool, you can safely grab an over length barrel and trim & test until you’re happy with the performance - I think I ended up between 350-400mm for mine. After that, it’d probably be best to look into hop ups that grub screw onto the inner barrel if you’re wanting to put one on.

sorry disagree on that I’ve got war interest, singularity and JG boxes and war interest would be the weakest JG at the top but kublai is supposed to be better so that’s next on my builds and boxes

@Mr.milkman I guess everyone has different experiences with diff products. I haven’t used the Singularity box but herd it is great for gen 8’s.
I have only dealt with Gen9’s and V2’s. I can definitely say the Warinterst nylon box is superior to the Gen9. However not having a quick spring release is a major pain in the butt.
Anyway it looks like everyone is transitioning to CNC machined these days because finally we have some good options.

ino what you mean not having the spring release is a big flaw as it’s just makes teardowns on it so tedious and annoying. yep CNC definitely the way to go I’m getting mk and retros CNC boxes soon so can’t wait for them

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