What’s a good starter gel blaster

One of my friends say to buy an ak the other says to buy an vector v2 I really like ar’s like the p416 and m4a1 but most of the forums I go to it’s says that the m4a1 gen8 ( which is the on like the most) is weak and doesn’t shoot far

There are many considerations including how you play…

Cqb or ranged

What is your ultimate goal…

Leave largely alone or upgrade to the moon

And of course budget

Every blaster can be amazing… None really start our that way

The Kriss vector and the wells m401 are solid out of the box good performers

My JJ SLR is also a good performers but I rebuilt it before I fired it which counts for allot

I expect others will come in here with other models


From my experience, the best starter blaster is the Gen 9 or J10… the Gen 8 generally has a plastic body and plastic (sometimes nylon) gearbox and gear set. The Gen 9 and J10 are all nylon and there are zillions of parts and upgrades readily available.

From what I have heard (never owned one) the HK416 can be good if you get a real one, but the counterfeit/knock offs are much the same as a Gen 8

It seems all gel blasters come with rubbish seals and weak springs… it seems no matter which one you buy… so, I am convinced that a Gen 9 or J10 with a decent O ring and a 1.3mm spring, other than that stock, makes a good, reliable first blaster :+1:


My type of playstyle is close/medium range I want to upgrade a fair bit but not a lot any websites you guys recommend as well as a blaster too if it’s not to much of a hassle also my budget is 500$ including holster more mags and a sidearm and a vest to hold the mags

For $500, you can buy two Gen 9s or one Gen 9 and one J10 make one reliable with a good seal and a 1.3mm spring… and hot up the other one… plus extra mags and batteries… and have some change to buy a side blaster…

What do you mean by hot up the other one

Also what type of j10/g9 should I get

Alot of people buy one gel blaster… then they start upgrading it (hotting it up) but often this makes it unreliable or it no longer works at all. You need one reliable blaster to play with any time… so one you just add a good O ring and a 1,3mm spring and enjoy pew pewing with it…

Then, get another blaster (or nylon body cases) and upgrade that to the max… all the time, being able to play with your basically stock, reliable one… while waiting to finish your monster upgraded one… if it ever gets finished and reliable… :muscle: :+1:


The G36 is so under rated, we have a wells, a scar, two vectors and my sons g36 even with a bigger spring is a laser, pisses all over the others for accuracy.

The best deal you can get… I like ebay… This one comes with 10k gold packet milkies for $165

Keep an eye on ebay for J10’s

Buy blasters from Australia, not overseas. They have a habit of ending up in customs… even tho they are toys?

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I bought both gen9 and ldt hk416d together and love both in different ways. gen 9 was much better accuracy but not as powerful and refined in quality as ldt. I have upgraded both since and have found it was harder to find upgrades for ldt than g9 like piston head/nozzle tappet

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I got the J10 ACR as I didn’t like the look of them 9 m4 as well as most blokes owning 1. So went the J10 ACR. Which my eldest now has. Which we have already upgraded somewhat an air leaks sealed. So when I gave my son my ACR I bought a kriss vector v3 an love it more than the ACR. Both went extremely well out of the box an surprised me how good they where


I agree - Gen 9 is way better in shooting terms. I did get an FB upgrade kit for th HK that has it at 330 FPS - but I took the spring from it, chucked it in the Gen 9 with green O-ring and it was doing 280 FPS and WAY more accuate.

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I just ordered a HK416 version 3… I didn’t realise there are knock off ones??

Yeah, I am also into RC helicopters, buggies, planes and excavators and things… all Chinese toy/equipment and blaster manufacturers all copy each other… all trying to make the cheapest prices possible (competing)… and no company can squeal and demand copywrite or stolen designs or whatever… because they all copy each other… including the first copy that was made of an American/British/German (or whatever) design in the first place.

Say a blaster made by XYZ company generally sells for say, $250… if you see new ones for sale on ebay or Ali for only $120… they will most likely be a clone with thinner wiring, lousy switches, lousy seals and horrible batteries… but they will still come in a proper cardboard box with the name ‘XYZ factory’ proudly written on it with instructions (probably in Chinese or very poor English) and look to the untrained eye to be the real thing… in some cases as good as the real thing… maybe even sometimes… even better than.

You can pick these ‘non originals’ when you look at the ebay advertisers description… the ad title says, for example ‘JinMing such and such’ but in the info, it says ‘unbranded’ or ‘Hoo Fung Toys’ or some other name that is not JinMing.

That is why you have to read every line of any advert on ebay or Ali… and probably some main stream blaster sites… and that is why, normally, if you buy from a named seller or shop… the goods will PROBABLY be genuine and that is why they cost so much more than on ebay or Ali

The downfall of buying off ebay or unscrupulous shops, is that they know you will think a blaster that is too cheap will make you realise it is a clone… so they will put the full price (+20) on their clone blaster so you convince yourself it has to be genuine… right?

We should have a thread on how to identify genuine from copy… with photos of inner mold markings, whether springs are chrome, gal, bare wire, cad plated, length and thickness etc. Also color of O ring, what a genuine cylinder looks like.

That way, when you open your new blaster and find it has a black O ring and a bare metal/gal 1.1mm spring… where the thread seems to suggest a genuine one should have a brown O ring and a goldie colored cad plated 1.2mm spring… you may find you have a dodgy one… or if your spring/seal/cylinder matches what the thread suggests a genuine one should have… you likely have an original?

Then we could work out where is best to buy a genuine one… and who is selling copies (and whether the copies are better or worse than the genuine)badluck laughing%20(1)

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yeah that all makes sense, so I bought the V3 HK416 off a website called gel blaster mafia I believe is their name,

it was $290 which was a bit cheaper than elsewhere

have you had any dealings with those guys?

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That seems like a reasonable price… most shops/sellers with a name and a reputation to look after will at least sell top notch knock offs :sweat_smile:

The biggest worry is when you find a HK416D for $79 bux… these are generally F…F…Faaaake! :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

Haha… what did I miss? Must have been good noidea laughing%20(1)


Hmm didnt delete my post on purpose.

It did say :
This is a good idea for a thread. I collected sneakers for years and obviously they get faked alot so you need to know the signs .Even for the b6 chargers there will be a few fakes off ali etc

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No worries, I was just pulling your chain :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

I think the B6 is the most faked charger of its kind… same as with sneakers… if you see advertised the latest Adidas super beaut sneakers for sale for $29.95… they are obviously not real…

But on the other hand, a seller may get some $29.95 rip offs… and advertise them for $1,495 and make a huge profit…